BEYOND BUCKSKIN

Watch It Again: Sh*t People Say to Natives

2012-01-28T06:14:00.004-07:00

London Pacific Fashion Show Designers Announced

2012-01-27T06:03:00.057-07:00

New Zealand fashion designers will appear in the upcoming London Pacific Fashion Show to be held in October. A charity fundraiser, this event will feature some of the hottest Pacifika designers.

For example, award-winning Samoan-raised (and Auckland-based) fashion designer Lindah Lepou will join other New Zealand designers Shona Tawhiao, Alixene Curtis, Jackie Naylor and Sistar S’Pacific.

I've written about the work of Shona Tawhiao (left) before, she is one of my favorite Maori designers. She is a skilled fiber artist, and she has based her fashion collections on traditional warrior attire using Maori weaving techniques.

Lindah Lepou (below left) is a full-time New Zealand artist of Samoan and Palagi (English/Scottish) descent, with a background in Performing Arts, Music, and Fashion.

Hupfeld Hoerder (below right) has proudly represented Fiji in the Islands of the World Fashion Week in the Bahamas where pieces of his collection were photographed and circulated in fashion magazines in New York.

Adi Koila Ganilau (above left) is known for her custom-drawn prints inspired by her homeland of Fiji.

An innovator of the contemporary Pasifika art scene as a long-standing member of the art collective the Pacific Sisters, Sistar S’pacific (above right) aka Rosanna Raymond embodies the cutting edge.

All proceeds will go to Help for Heroes Band of Brothers, which provides support for British Armed Forces personnel wounded in the line of duty.

Click here to read more about the designers.

RedStyle Launches

2012-01-26T06:05:00.001-07:00

Check out this super new online resource for fashion, art, and music. RedStyle seeks to offer a networking space to easily and quickly find First Nation professionals. As of now, the site features posts about musicians and artists, and fashion designers Angela DeMontigny, Virgil Ortiz, Wolf Pack Designs, and Kim Picard. Click here for more information.

Bead Artist Profile | Summer Peters

2012-01-25T06:21:00.002-07:00

Summer Peters, a proud member of the Saginaw Ojibwe Tribe of Michigan, first learned to bead from her mom and grandmother. They taught her to thread her first needle and how to make the knot at the end, and it seems like she hasn't stopped since. She developed her own unique technique of beading, and sold her first piece of beadwork when she was a young teenager.

Nowadays, her business goes by the name of Mama Longlegz, and anybody with a name like that you know they've gotta have a lot of spunk. In fact, when she's not beading, Mama Longlegz is competing in tournament style Brazilian Jiu Jitsu. She applies her favorite quote, "When your not training, someone else is training to kick your a**!" to her Jiu Jitsu, but also to her art. Every day she invests the time to make sure that she's strengthening her skills and producing high quality beadwork for her clients. She states:

"My beadwork is watered and fed well everyday."

When did you get into beading?
I started beading when I was about 8. I was drawing since I could pick up a pencil and my exposure to the arts always offered an opportunity to try whatever was placed in front of me. My mom was a single mom and was working on her Business degree while taking care of me. People would come to our house to tell her what they wanted made. She mostly made necklaces with whatever the client wanted on it. This was her way of supplementing her income during the early 1980s.

My grandmother's house was also filled with art supplies. In her living room was a couch, a tv and a huge table filled with paints and beading supplies. I would walk over there and very persistently yet respectfully demand that she teach me. Lol. She was the one who sold her creations in town, at the tribal center. Her house was such a creative hub that she even had a full size kiln in her extra bedroom.

The inspiration and foundation came from them, I was motivated to keep on beading because I danced jingle and knew that I wouldn't have beaded leggings or moccasins if I didn't make them myself. People began to place orders with me as early as age 14. The first thing I ever sold was a barrette with 3 purple roses, it sold for $40. For a 14 year old back then, that was a jackpot!

What is your favorite thing to bead?
My most favorite thing to bead is my tribe's traditional floral style that is a common characteristic of the bandolier bag. I am Ojibwe and have great pride in where I come from. I do bead designs from other tribes when I have a client who requests so but if I am working by my own creative freedom, I am beading flowers, leaves, berries and other foliage that one can find in a Great Lakes forest. I live in the desert, and beading Ojibwe-style keeps me connected to my homeland and people. I like to give the floral work the contemporary spin that I am known for. I do them in unexpected colors, it's just a little bit of me in a very old traditional shape.

Who is your inspiration?
My mom is an inspiration. She was a single mom who is now a highly educated individual. Her and my grandmother showed me it is possible to make a living off of God given talent. My ancestors with all their struggles and perseverance are an inspiration. My family, in the 1940s, used to make large birch bark laundry baskets for the farmers and school teachers as a way to make a living. My kids inspire me everyday to work hard, everything I do is to ensure that they have a easy life and bright future. Music and nature inspire me. Lastly, my peers inspire me to be a good business woman and strive to do my best.

What is something that a lot of people don’t know, but should know, about your tribe?
One thing about my tribe in Michigan is the high rate of talent that it has produced. We have many of us who are award winning artists all the way to tribal members who work in the movie industry. My reservation has the same problems as every other tribe but the fact that so many of us have taken our talent to another level is something I am proud of.

You can check out Mama Longlegz on Facebook. She will also be at this year's RES12 in Las Vegas.

Creating a National Aboriginal Fashion Week

2012-01-24T06:00:00.000-07:00

The folks up north are brewing up a National Aboriginal Fashion Week (NAFW) to launch this summer. Slated to happen in Regina, Saskatchewan, June 21-23 of 2012, NAFW will deliver a diverse experience blending fashion and music from artists and designers from across Saskatchewan and Canada. The fashion shows will include street wear, eco-friendly garments, and Aboriginal designs. NAFW aims to create a global platform for new designers and emerging artists in North America.

Click here to read more.

Photographer Profile | Levi BlackWolf

2012-01-23T06:35:00.000-07:00

It was like the shot that took Native photography to places it's never been to before. Or maybe it's been there before, but never there there. Like, there there. The responses to the calendar put out by Wolfn Photographies (left) had the ladies saying quotable quotes like "I'll take one. Oh...you meant the calendar..." and "I need this at work, home, and in my car!" and my personal favorite, "creator was in a good mood when he made you."

The man who brought us this joyous image is Levi BlackWolf, the eyes behind Wolfn Photographies.

He is a member of the Confederated Tribes of the Warm Springs Indian Reservation. Levi is straightforward with his vision. He recognizes the importance of the basics - he says that it is his mother who inspires him; and the amazing thing about his tribe, he states, is that they are evidence of great survival. Without Native photographers, he explains, we wouldn't see all of the awesome things about life. That is Wolfn - the man who speaks little with written words, but impacts greatly with images.

"You can tell alot about a person by the way they react to a situation."

When did you first get into photography?
I got into photography about 5 years ago. I got into it because time after time after time, I saw images in my head as I was going through my day, and I kept telling myself, "That would have been a cool shot." And I was saying it more and more, so I got my first DSLR in 2005. I've been doing freelance for 4 years, and last year I officially launched "Wolfn Photographies" as a business.

What is your favorite thing to photograph?
Right now, if you look at my portfolio, you will see a good percentage of Native women and powwow dancers. I also like to shoot wildlife when I get the chance.

How do you define ‘beautiful’?
I define beautiful inside and out. I see a lot of 'beautiful' people but what makes them beautiful is how they are when we are not talking about my work, when they are genuinly nice. Also, beautiful is that feeling when your heart smiles when you see something you love.

Find out more about Wolfn Photographies by clicking here.

Maya Stewart's Luxury Handbags

2012-01-22T06:03:00.000-07:00

I first met Maya Stewart a couple years ago during the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week events happening in Manhattan. She was selected by the New York-based Unreserved Alliance to join a couple other fashion designers and jewelry artists in bringing Native-made fashion to the international scene. Stewart is Chickasaw, Creek and Choctaw, and she comes from a family of fashion designers who were rocking the Oklahoma Native fashion scene in the 1980s (think Red Earth Powwow chic). At the New York Fashion Week open house event, Stewart had her latest purse collection on display, and the press loved her work, with several mentions in various online magazines and fashion reviews.

I was able to reconnect with her recently, and she shared the following news:

"I am now creative director/designer for a luxury handbag company, Jill Milan. It is wonderful because she mentions I am Chickasaw, Creek and Choctaw in our press kit."

Stewart also hinted at launching a new collection with some Southeastern Native influences later this year.

Click here to read a blog post with images of the Jill Milan collection, or click here to access the Jill Milan website.

Bruno Henry's Manitoulin Couture Hits the Press

2012-01-21T06:25:00.001-07:00

Haudenosaune fashion designer Bruno Henry was recently featured in an article published in the Sudbury Star. I fell behind in some of my reading!, but this a fun read about Henry and his work.

Fashion Designer Brings Island Haute Couture to the World, by Bonnie Kogos

My favourite curmudgeon, Kagawong know-it-all, Uncle Mudge, my severest critic and cherished elder, talks by phone to chin wag and wish each other Happy New Year.

He tells me there is fluffy snow on the Kagawong dock, and the bay's starting to freeze over.
He drops an amazing unexpected compliment: "You've proved to me you go easily from concrete and glass on Manhattan to birch and pine on Manitoulin. Two heart homes."

"Thought you'd never admit that, Mudge!" I melt like a Kagawong fluffy snowflake.

"Don't get too comfortable," he warns. "Tell me one amazement for you this past year on Manitoulin?"

"That's easy, unexpected Haute Couture created in Wikwemikong, Uncle Mudge! At the Manitoulin Trade Fair in June, I sat at a fashion show. Exciting music began as one young native woman after another, exquisite and elegant, strode and through the room wearing sophisticated dresses some made of deerskin or leather, with fringe, and fabulous attitude, My, oh the drama of each dress, curve and serve, attention to detail -- I shot up in my seat, this New York fashionista who loves sophisticated clothing. A native clothing designer based in Wikwemikong? Hoorah!"

When the presentation was over, I made a beeline and knocked politely on the closed door of the dressing room. It was opened by an adorable girl, age 8, his daughter, Trinity.

"You want to see my dad? He makes the clothes," she said, motioning to a Haudenosaune fellow from Wikwemikong, Bruno Henry, an artistic designer and photographer.

"You bet, young lady!" I introduce myself to Henry.

"These dresses are fabulous. You've been at this awhile, how many fashion shows have you been a part of, sir?"

"More than 30," Henry says serenely, suppressing a smile. He has to be used to reactions like mine, gushing over his couture. "We travel the powwow circuit, go to Christmas galas, and to youth programs on reserves as far as Winnipeg. I've been interviewed for an upcoming project featuring Native Fashion Designers for Native Peoples Magazine published in Phoenix, Az. I hope I'm one of the designers chosen."

Click here to read the rest of the article at the original post site.

Photographer Profile | Tyson Anderson

2012-01-20T06:10:00.012-07:00

Hello everyone! One of the coolest unknown aspects of the Native fashion world is the fact that many of the designers work with Native models and Native photographers. So, to expand the Beyond Buckskin circle, I am starting to profile the individuals who bring us the images, yes, I'm talking about those lens-fierce Indians. Right now, I want to share with you some background info on Tyson Anderson, the artist behind Tyson Anderson Photography.

Tyson is a member of the Sayisi Dene First Nation, born and raised in northern Manitoba. This guy captures images that radiate with an anticipatory energy that comes when you take a deep breath in just before something major is about to happen. And, as you will see from the interview below, he is amazingly articulate and has an extraordinary story - Tyson is only 19.

"Look at life through the windshield, not the rear-view mirror."

When and why did you get into photography?
Creativity is something I've had all my life. I sketched all throughout my childhood and won art contests. Photography was my next creative outlet, I gained interest in cameras around the age of 11, I would constantly have a new disposable camera, I was so fascinated in capturing all the moments with my friends. I got my first digital camera when I was 13, I was 17 when I wanted to pursue model/fashion photography so my parents got me my first DSLR which I still use two years later.

What do you like to photograph?
My main interest is Fashion and Portraiture. I'm intrigued by attempting to capture emotion in people, whether it may convey heartbreak or confidence, I love it all! I also have my moments where I need solitude to clear my head so I take my Nikon and aimlessly adventure outdoors.

How would you define ‘beautiful’?
The most important component in making or breaking a photograph is confidence! Confidence is my definition of beautiful. People who possess this quality always make for a fun photo session.

What is something that a lot of people don’t know, but should know, about your home community?
There have actually been university assignments that involve researching the troubled history of my home community. The Sayisi Dene were once a nomadic tribe that followed herds of Caribou. I believe it was in the 1950s when the Government made the decision to relocate the people to Churchill, Manitoba, with promises of housing establishment. The promises failed to be met and hundreds became victims of poverty and died of alcoholism. In 1969 they decided to establish elsewhere, which then became the home reserve known as Tadoule Lake.

What do you want people to know about Native photographers like yourself?
People tend to get a misconception that I only photograph Natives, I fully intend on expanding my portfolio and working with people of all races. However I very much enjoy promoting Native talent and beauty through my photography. Winnipeg is probably the Native capital of Canada and there's quite a bit of negative connotation attached to "being Native" from my personal understanding and experiences, so I take pride in trying my best in displaying excellence and professionalism. There's also few Natives in my college photography course, I love representing Natives amongst my peers!

Click here to find Tyson Anderson Photography on Facebook.

Gong Mukluks

2012-01-18T06:03:00.008-07:00

Activist artist Louie Gong teams up with Manitobah Mukluks to produce a special line of Northwest Coast-themed mukluks and moccasins.

Gong has been creating shoe art for the past couple years, making his mark on Vans sneakers in the form of Custom Coast Salish and Northwest Coast style shoes since 2009. You can check out his Eighth Generation website for more information on all his latest accomplishments and creative projects.

The two footwear options offered as part of the collab will feature a hand-etched Thunderbird design created by Gong and placed onto the Manitobah Mukluks' traditional Gatherer style shoe.

To view the TV premiere of the new kicks, click ahead to the 2:30 minute mark and hear more about the collaboration. [NOTE: The video shows an early prototype of the mukluk. The final version, which will launch for sale in the Spring, will be a mid-high boot instead of a tall for a keener fit! AND the art is Coast Salish, not Haida.]

Image above: Gong with the Thunderbird design, shot by Kiliii Fish.

Designer Profile | Faith Charlo

2012-01-16T23:45:00.001-07:00

I was first drawn to the cool Mohawk hats and baby buntings made by Faith Charlo when I was putting together the Etsy Holiday Gift Guide at the end of last November. The fun kiddie gear is sold through her small business, Powwow Baby. Charlo is Wampanoag, from Massachusetts, but she grew up on the Flathead Indian Reservation in Western Montana. She shared with me a bit more about the story and inspiration behind her work.

When and why did you start making clothing?
I have loved art and sewing since I was a child. My dad was an artist and an art teacher while I was growing up, and my mom used to make clothes for my siblings and I when I was real young, so I have creativity in my genes from both sides of my family. I started my business in 2009 as a side job. I made a bunting for a friend that had a baby, and it was a big hit, so I made more. My friends encouraged me to go into business, and Powwow Baby was born!

How would you describe your work?
The pieces I make are a blend of traditional and contemporary. I love to see Native designs featured in everyday items that show our culture is alive and relevant in today's world.

How would you describe your creative process?
My mind is always going. I see something and wonder how I could give it a Native twist. I love to see people get excited about my products, to see a piece of clothing that reflects their world, something they don't usually see in stores.

What or who is your inspiration?
My inspirations are all the kids in my life. I always wanted to make my daughter a bunting after I saw one that a friend had for her child. Unfortunately, I never got around to it until she was 13 years old! But I'm glad the idea stuck in my head all those years. The mohawk hats I make were inspired by my little nephews, who rocked the hairstyle to their first day of kindergarten.

Powwow Baby Fleece Buntings (above left) feature built-in mittens, easy-on zipped front, tasseled hoods, shell or nickel buttons, and a slit for carseat and stroller belts. Powwow Baby buntings are available in a variety of sizes, and in various Native and contemporary print fleece fabric.

Powwow Baby Mohawk Hats (above right) are made to keep your young ones warm (and cool) with two layers of fleece in sizes for all kids (babies through teens). They come in a variety of Native and contemporary print fleece fabric, and are machine washable.

Click here to visit the Powwow Baby store on Etsy.

Redwire TV Documentary on Native Style

2012-01-13T06:06:00.000-07:00

The youth-led online media source RedwireTV recently put together a mini-documentary on Native Style. Headed up by Cheyanna Kootenhayoo, this documentary explores the world of First Nations Northwest Coast fashion through interviews with designers and consumers. Fashion designers such as Tamara Rain Bull, Pam Baker, and Tony Solomon share their ideas about fashion, history, and how they utilize their cultural identities within their unique designs.

Redwire is a collective of Native youth creating uncensored spaces for other youth to find their own voice. All of the media projects are initiated and led by talented young individuals, inspiring creativity, confidence, motivation and action. As a media and arts organization, Redwire dedicated to the power and healing of unhindered expression.

Cheyanna Josette Veronica Kootenhayoo, is a young multi-talented Dene/Nakota woman from Alexis Nakota Sioux Nation, and originally from Cold Lake, Alberta. Cheyanna works with Redwire Native Youth Media Society as the Video Coordinator.

Now Bead This

2012-01-11T06:00:00.024-07:00

Hello Beyond Buckskin readers -
I'm starting a new trend for 2012, and I'm enlisting the help of some of my favorite people to write guest posts. Here's the first, Now Bead This, by Lut Stamp (aka I.D.K.)

In 2012, the floodgates have opened, and “Native” has become the main ingredient in every artist's mash-up fantasy. Clothes, art, rap music, skateboards and shoes all carry heavy street credibility in Indian Country, and finding a way to personalize these things with a little dash of “Tradish” is all the rage.

In honor of this fabulous trend, let me introduce the butter to yer frybread, the beaded baseball hat. (I had to include the obligatory frybread joke. My bad.)

I'm not really sure when, or where people started beading baseball hats, but legend has it that the pilgrims adorned them, as a gift from the Natives during the first Thanksgiving. No? Did I lose you already? Sorry, it's my first guest blog for Beyond Buckskin and I can't stop lying. Time out.

The truth? Who knows. Ever since the seed bead was introduced to Native people, we've gone bead crazy. The museums and history books are stuffed with outrageously intricate bead-work items of all kinds. Blankets, moccasins, purses, and baby things have all gotten the makeover. Even today, it wouldn't be a pow-wow without beaded eagle fans, hairpieces, and regalia on all the girls and boys. Through generations of beading, and in-beading (lol) we arrived at the modern baseball cap... Where we eagerly jumped on a chance to tattoo another item of Americana, into an artifact of our own design.

I started beading caps when I was just a kid, on the reservation back in the 80's. I had a yellow World Wresting Federation hat with Hulk Hogan on it, and I beaded it with blue and yellow beads. My friends had their own, that either their moms or grandmothers beaded for them. I remember seeing NFL caps, blank trucker caps, and lots of military veteran caps all beaded with different personalized designs, colors, and eagle feather plumes.

In fact, beaded baseball caps are so common in Indian country, they're almost invisible as the iconic symbol that they really are. They're casual, they're distinct, and they embody the essence of modern “Indian” culture.

I've included a picture of my latest beaded cap, “Joba's Medicine Hat,” which I beaded in honor of the New York Yankees Winnebago pitcher Joba Chamberlain, one of several Native professional athletes that are awesome.

And, for the sake of a 21st Century discussion, we were hoping this introduction would inspire people to take pictures of their own beaded baseball caps and post them on the Beyond Buckskin Facebook fan page. It would be cool to see what caps people have out there in the closet, and how they came to be. I think it's time to blow this up into a trend, and make 2012 the official year of the “Beaded Baseball Cap.” It's a timeless fashion statement, in need of recognition that is long overdue.

*I.D.K. is an enrolled member of the Colville Confederated Tribes in Washington State. He goes by his Indian name, and currently creates mayhem... with words, beads, and paintbrushes in Las Vegas, Nevada.

IAIA | How To Break Jewelry

2012-01-09T06:22:00.001-07:00

Check out this article written by a friend of mine (and fellow Darmouthian) Peterson Chee Brossy. The article is titled "How To Break Jewelry" and was published in the IAIA Chronicle, the official online newspaper for and by the students of the Institute of American Indian Arts.

The article takes a look at jewelry made by IAIA students; and Brossy features one student, Brian Fleetwood (Creek) who combines biology, science and art in his jewelry creations.

Brossy writes:
"The popular market for Native jewelry has an unofficial definition of what it should be: it has to be silver, turquoise, with southwestern motifs, like concho belts with geometric “tribal” designs, squash blossom necklaces. But there’s also a push from Native jewelers to broaden its scope. Experimentation isn’t always rewarded—neither by the market, or by critics, be they Native or not.

Fleetwood butts against convention whenever he sits down to make a piece. “Pan-Indianism really gets on my nerves,” he says, taking a break from the silver honeycomb and leaning back in his chair. “I think it’s important to recognize the distinct cultures within that—it’s not just one homogenous thing. Nothing against Southwestern jewelry, but that’s not all there is. People get accused of, ‘Oh, that’s not Indian jewelry’ if they do their own thing.”

This is jewelry. It is not “wearable sculpture” or “architecture for the body” or anything else but jewelry. At least, this is the case Fleetwood and IAIA jewelry instructor Mark Herndon are making: We shouldn’t have to feel the need to qualify jewelry with sculpture, or architecture, to raise its status when we see a piece we like—jewelry is an art of its own, as is sculpture, painting, drawing. To erase any idea that it is a “low art” is to open jewelry up to what it can be."

Read the entire article and view more images by clicking here.

The Storyboot Project by Manitobah Mukluks

2012-01-06T06:46:00.122-07:00

The other week, I wrote a post about Manitobah Mukluks, and it turns out that the images I used for the post were from a fake website parading as the real deal (and potentially selling counterfeit Manitobah Mukluks). I've since changed the images and link. While this is a reality for all brands (you know, Frada, Folex, etc), I get particularly riled up when it has to do with Native gear.

While the exact details of this other page are still unfolding, the fake store has many of the same images as the real page (including hijacking the "our story" image), making it confusing for buyers. The fake page also undercuts the prices of the real Manitobah Mukluks store by doing the ol' 20% off trick. You're probably thinking the same thing as me: Is it legal for a site to do brand confusion like that? It seems unethical and outright illegal.

Since the fake website uses the company's logo, the folks at the real shop are looking into what actions they can take to ensure customers are getting what they're looking for. In the mean time, authentic Manitobah Mukluks can always be found at www.manitobah.ca.

Now I want to share a little bit about the Storyboot Project - it's a new project headed up by Manitobah Mukluks in an effort to help revive traditional art practices by creating business-building partnerships with elders and artists who create moccasins and mukluks the traditional way.

According to the project website, the company commissions original boot designs from the artists and produces a limited collection of replicas called Storyboots. The project offers artists a 50/50 profit-sharing agreement that provides families and communities with economic benefits that would otherwise not exist.

With this project, Manitobah Mukluks creatively combines traditional knowledge practices, processes of cultural continuance, and the reality of economics. Their ultimate mission is to help Aboriginal communities achieve self-sufficiency and keep traditions alive for generations to come. That's pretty cool.

Check out the video documentary below to find out more about the project.

The Story Boot Project by Manitobah Mukluks from Lotus Leaf Style on Vimeo.

Manitobah Mukluks is Aboriginal Owned and Made in Canada.

Designer Profile | Alano Edzerza

2012-01-04T06:34:00.004-07:00

It’s high time that I do a profile on this rising star in the fashion world (who, by many regards, can already be considered established).

Hailing from the Tahltan Nation, Alano Edzerza is currently based out of Vancouver, where he operates his gallery. He belongs to the Raven Clan, and the important bird features prominently in his artwork.

Although this post is strictly on his fashion design and apparel, Edzerza also creates jewelry, sculpture, glass work, two-dimensional art, and large-scale installations.

His apparel hit the international scene two years ago when he designed the uniforms for the Netherlands team for the 2010 Winter Olympics held in BC.

But you don't need to be an Olympian or even an athlete to wear his gear (this is good news for people like me). You can find his Northwest Coast-inspired designs on everything from tunic dresses to t-shirts and hoodies, and even some badass outerwear (see below). Another cool little fact?: his clothes are available in sizes that range from XS to 3XL.

Edzerza says he uses a Northern variation of Northwest Coast art, with a contemporary graphic art twist; and that is exactly what he does - taking cues from popular fashion (by decentering the designs), he also employs age-old Northwest Coast artistic practices of wrapping and expanding 2-D designs around an object (the human body, in this case). His designs are clean and striking, granting the wearers of his apparel the status of being 'effortlessly cool.'

(Black Formline on Blue, NAA004 by Alano Edzerza, XS-XL, $45,

Model: Amberae Wood, Photo: Thosh)

(Ladies TriBlend Raglan Sleeve Pullover, NAA037-Eagles Landing, $45)

(Edzerza Eagle Shell Jacket By Alano Edzerza, XS-XL, $399.95,

Model: Amberae Wood)

(Grey Smoke Hole cropped design on Black T-Shirt,

NAA030 By Alano Edzerza, XS-2XL, $28)

(Formline Camo Hoodie, NAA017 By Alano Edzerza, XS-2XL, $80)

Profile image above from CBR Photography, all other images from www.edzerzagallery.com. Email inquiries to director@edzerzagallery.com, or fan his apparel page on Facebook by clicking here. You can also follow his blog by clicking here.

Designer Profile | Sage Paul

2012-01-02T06:03:00.042-07:00

Hello everyone, and Happy 2012! We are going to start off the new year with a rising designer: Sage Paul.

Sage Paul is a young emerging First Nations fashion designer who hails from the Dene Nation. She says she's been interested in fashion as long as she can remember, and she began designing by making clothing for herself when she was younger.

Paul attended George Brown College’s Fashion Design program in Toronto, graduating in 2006. She developed a unique perspective for fashion while working in the Toronto Indigenous arts community, an urban community that is vibrant and outspoken and one that she says she finds incredible inspiration. She is also inspired by the fashion designs of Alexander McQueen and Ronald Everett. Working with cultural and traditional concepts – both Indigenous and Euro-American - Paul seeks to identify the 'urban Indian' through her work.

Her most recent collection is titled The End of Summer Collection. "The colours," she explains, "are what have really grounded the collection – Sage, Mauve, Cream, and Navy. In addition to balancing the summer and fall colour trends, the colours are neutral, yet have a vibrancy which one would experience in the natural world. What I love about the collection is that it is so purposefully put together – the way the earth is, yet organic."

The End of Summer Collection

She explains that she is committed to creating an accurate representation of contemporary Indigenous people, and ethically produces and commissions unique, trendy and quality-made men’s and women’s ready-to-wear apparel, accessories and other Indigenous-made items.

Paul also runs a blog called Authentic Appropriations, where she explores and reports on current fashion trends and expressions from the urban Indigenous community. In an attempt to challenge stereotypical imagery, the blog features innovative styles of men and women from various Indigenous nations; Authentic Appropriations presents Indigenous people as we are today.

Street Style - Authentic Appropriations

For her next collection, Paul explains, "The fall 2012 Collection is centered around Migration and Relocation and examines the adaptation of being in a new, unfamiliar environment. Particularly of Indigenous people and our cultural adaptation, to see how traditional or natural materials and ideas can be used with an industrial approach. With this collection I'm playing a lot with traditional tailoring techniques and merging those with "native" tailoring and craftsmanship that I see in clothing throughout history, such as pow wow regalia or pre-contact tailoring. This collection will very much be about shape and craftsmanship."

Paul is also currently talking with Planet IndigenUs (August 10-19) to put something together for their annual arts festival held at the Harbourfront Centre in Toronto.

With cool new projects on the horizon, hopefully we'll hear more from Sage Paul in the next months.

Click the links below to discover more about Sage Paul:
Sage Paul Website
Sage Paul Tumblr
Urban Warrior
A Night with Sage Paul

Become a Beyond Buckskin Fan on Facebook

2011-12-30T18:27:00.001-07:00

Expanding the Beyond Buckskin circle - you can now fan the Beyond Buckskin Page on Facebook.

You can post Native fashion event announcements, photos, or designer info on the wall - just make sure that you stick to Native-made fashion.

(Left: Imaged from the Buffalo Thunder fashion show (2010), design by Jerry Ingram.)

Top 11 in Native Fashion for 2011

2011-12-28T06:02:00.024-07:00

Well, I don't like when bad people who do bad things get all the attention, so now here is another list: The Top 11 Cool Things That Happened in Native Fashion in 2011.

1. Beyond Buckskin Expands: Not only did this blog site get a major make-over (thanks to Silver Jackson), now you can keep up with Beyond Buckskin and the Native fashion scene on Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest, and Etsy. Whew.

2. Native Designers in the Press: Journalists and writers were lovin Native fashion designers this year: Navajo designers were featured in WOTN Online Mag, the Canadian press fell in love with Manitoba Mukluks, Swagg Mag and other street sites promo'd Sho Sho Esquiro's threads, powwow fashionista Jhane Myers was featured on KASA Tv, Orlando Dugi was spotlighted on Phoenix's Good Morning Arizona, Dorothy Grant's shop closing was discussed as a sign of the economic times, and Louie Gong and his kickass shoes showed up in video docs and magazines.

Orlando Dugi

3. Collaborations: In the past twelve months, we saw four majorly-cool collaborations: the first was American fashion designer Siki Im's collaboration with Navajo textile artist Tahnibaa Naataanii, the second was West is Dead's partnership with Native tribes, and the third was Nike's collaboration with Native artist Bunky Echo-Hawk. Finally, Virgil Ortiz collaborated with a major carpet company to produce his Indigenous Imprints collection.

4. On the Red Carpet: Speaking of carpets, Orlando Dugi and Disa Tootoosis saw their creations on the Red Carpet this year. Hopefully we'll see even more celebs rockin Native-made gear in 2012.

5. Maori Fashion Continues to Grow: Miromoda continued their mission statement of bringing Maori fashion to the global scene with their 2011 efforts with New Zealand Fashion Week. They're doing some really cool projects, so expect more posts on Maori fashion in 2012.

6. A Fashionable Heard Indian Market: Several fashion designers and jewelers rocked out the annual Phoenix event, including Margaret Roach Wheeler, Pilar Agoyo, Craig Kelly, Penny Singer, Sheridan MacKnight, Douglas Miles, and the Gaussoin family.

7. The History of Native Fashion at IAIA: My online exhibition about the important history of Native fashion at the Institute of American Indian Arts recently launched, and featured information on Lloyd Kiva New, Wendy Ponca, Patricia Michaels, and Pilar Agoyo.

Tracy Toulouse at GON11

8. Fashion at the Gathering of Nations: Some of the most fashionable Native scenesters showed up for the events held during the annual powwow in Albuquerque. Tracy Toulouse, Vans, and Turquoise Soul were joined by G Jewelry, Mea BFly, DreLynn Designs, and many beadwork artists. Also during GON11, I tagged along on a photoshoot for a behind-the-scenes look at all the hard work that goes into being a Native fashion designer.

9. Awards and Recognition: Native fashion designers continued to receive recognition for their work in 2011. Danita Strawberry was commissioned to create a Star Dress for a museum, Angela DeMontigny was selected to create clothes for the Calgary Stampede Royalty, Mildred Carpenter's dress was featured in an exhibition, and she also won the top designer award at the He Sapa Style show. Beyond Buckskin was chosen as one of the five Indigenous Blogs to Follow Now, and Tammy Beauvais created scarves worn by graduating students at McGill, and she also created a Kateri scarf to present to the Pope.

Michaels' Fashion Parade

10. Santa Fe Indian Market Style: Once again, SWAIA hosted many fashion events during their annual Indian Market. Patricia Michaels presented her popular Guerrilla Fashion Parade, Tom Ford weighed in on the Clothing Contest as a guest judge, and Dallin Maybee, Naomi Bebo Maybee, Toni Williams, and little Persephone Maybee were among the winners.

11. New Fashion Crushes: Adding to the many designers who I respect (and have covered in this blog since 2009), I developed some new fashion crushes in 2011, including Turquoise Soul, Sho Sho Esquiro, and Tracy Toulouse (I got to meet them at GON11), and all those cool Etsy artists who I have been Etsy-stalking since the end of November (expect some more formal profile posts on them in 2012).

Here's to a bright and shiny, and fashionable, New Year~ (picture me cheersing)

Top 10 Native Appropriations in Fashion for 2011

2011-12-26T06:26:00.003-07:00

It's that time of year! When everyone posts their Top 10 of 2011 Lists, and here is my list of the top Native appropriations in fashion for 2011 (take THAT, Los Angeles Times!):

10. Forever 21's Cheap Knock-Offs: We can always count on Forever 21 to give us some great cheap options for any fashion trend. I even make my students go to F21 as part of a Tribal Trend Scavenger Hunt assignment. They never fail to bring in stellar images of some wacky fringed and feathered bodily ruckus.

9. Suzy Menkes and the S-Word: Fashion critic and writer Suzy Menkes selects the wrong choice of words, and her slur flies completely under the radar.

8. Pendleton's Collaboration with Those Hipster Companies: Oh, Pendleton. Our entangled epic relationship continues.

7. Spirit Hoods: I never blogged about these weird fluffy critters that hipsters love to wear on their heads while they're seeking vision quests at the latest music festival. But Adrienne Keene did over at Native Appropriations, and her interactions with the Spirit Hood Tribal Chief is hilarious.

6. Vogue's Indians: Vogue editors everywhere fell in love with the Indian and decided to do some fashion spreads in homage. The problem is that they chose to use non-Native designers, non-Native models, non-Native photographers, non-Native stylists and make-up artists, and non-Native consultants and editors.

5. Red-on-Red Art Crime: (Mis)Appropriation happens all across the board, and in every direction, and in this post from earlier in December, a Native artist/businessman steals a design from a well-known Metis artist to create accessories to sell on Zazzle.

4. The Callaloo Parade: Native-themed parades were all the rage this summer (remember when the Pride boys filled their float with Cowboys and Indians in Santa Fe?), but one in particular really stuck out for me. It was the Callaloo Caribana Parade held in Toronto, where 'sanctioned' hyper-sexualized costumes included the 'Native Apache' and the 'Sacrificial Mayan Virgin.' So, of course, I investigated the sexualization of Native women in fashion, from a critical perspective.

3. Proenza Schouler's Creepy Indians Video: Oh lawrd. When this one dropped I didn't know what to do. I think we all just scratched our heads. Some people tried to tell us that this video was 'clever,' but... I disagree.

2. White Women (and Men) and Headdresses: The headdress trend continues, despite being overtly disrespectful. Sigh. So I began researching the history of this annoying trend.

1. Urban Outfitters' Navajo Obsession: The short version: UO becomes obsessed with Navajos, Navajos send them a cease and desist letter, UO ignores, bloggers and writers wage digital war. Well, if it wasn't for this case, we wouldn't have this gem of a quote: "Don't claim Navajo, unless it's Navajo, and you ain't Navajo. So knock if off." Yea, knock it off.

BONUS: Genocide Chic Satire: Hilarity ensues when mock high fashion designer DW Diaz dips the old crusty past in some glitter!

Let's hope that none of these "top trends in Native appropriations in fashion" drag on into 2012!

Cheers to a new year~

Manitobah Mukluks

2011-12-25T06:55:00.008-07:00

Manitobah Mukluks have been hitting the (Canadian) news lately, and so I want to spread some love down here in the States -

Manitobah Mukluks is headed up by Metis entrepreneur Sean McCormick, who has turned traditional moccasins and mukluks into some pretty cool contemporary footgear.

Founded in 1997, the company started off small - at a trading post in Winnipeg. McCormick traded raw materials (leathers and furs) to First Nations women who brought in their handmade mukluks. Customers, he says, couldn't get enough of them, so he hired some folks and started producing them in-house. Since then, the four-person shop has grown to an operation that employs 50, with a factory and warehouse in Winnipeg and a global sales and marketing office near Ottawa.

McCormick says, "We make a product that's a really cool melding of the past and the present."

As the brand’s popularity expands and its mukluks and moccasins are included in popular fashion magazines, McCormick is not worried about sacrificing authenticity.

"I think it’s really good that an Aboriginal company with Aboriginal staff is making and selling Aboriginal products, rather than a non-Aboriginal company doing it," he explains, noting that there are competitors making a similar product without his company’s connection to the community.

Follow me on Pinterest

2011-12-24T05:49:00.000-07:00

Click here to see my Pinterest Board, titled Beyond Buckskin, of course.

Los Angeles Times | Top Trends of 2011

2011-12-23T13:31:00.014-07:00

This is interesting:

The Los Angeles Times listed their Top 10 fashion trends of 2011, and 'Native Accents' show up as #4 (hey, at least they list us on a sacred number).

They explain: "Fair Isle knits and Native American prints were splashed across everything from 1980s-era cropped tops, to chunky scarves, leggings and sweaters. If you're looking for the source, think back to the fall 2010 D&G runway (a Fair Isle fest as seen in the top right photo), Proenza Schouler's fall 2011 collection inspired by Santa Fe, and the music festivals."

There you have it folks, Native people, tribes, and their cultural heritages are not the source of inspiration for Native accents. Nope, Dolce and Gabbana and Proenza Schouler are. The Los Angeles Times has completely erased us from the mix. Thanks guys.

Ok, now let's compare this 2011 post, with a 1952 snippet from the Los Angeles Times:

Nearly 60 years ago, references to the Native were also 'rampant' in the fashion scene. The difference, however, is that in the 1950s, the Los Angeles Times decided to feature a Native fashion designer (instead of non-Natives who are inspired by 'the Native'). Lloyd Kiva New (Cherokee) was an important fashion designer in the 1950s.

The caption reads, "This is going to be an Indian summer. The growing influence of the Southwest is responsible for the American Indian theme rampant in current sportswear. This two-piece dress by Lloyd Kiva, of Scottsdale, Ariz. (a Cherokee Indian himself), illustrates the trend. It's made of cactus-green and desert-sand wool with hand-woven trim." - Joan Short

So, the difference is that the LA Times featured a Native designer to illustrate the trend back then, but chooses not to today.

I think a top trend of 2011 is straight up Native appropriation.

Cool Grey Skies Earrings by MiLoProductions

2011-12-21T23:46:00.004-07:00

Source: img0.etsystatic.com via Jessica on Pinterest

MiLoProductions is headed up by Michelle Lowden, based out of New Mexico. Lowden is from the Pueblo of Acoma. She specializes in hand-made jewelry painted with geometric designs on balsa wood. Although the designs have a distinctive pop/street feel, all of her inspiration actually comes from traditional Acoma pottery, which is widely known for its historic intricate and geometric patterns.

Beyond Buckskin on Twitter

2011-12-18T17:59:00.002-07:00

I just started up a Twitter account (behind the times, I know), but follow me!: @beyondbuckskin

Click here to see more.

Etsy Gift Guide: Hat Bands for the Men in Your Life!

2011-12-18T06:18:00.003-07:00

For any guy - from your musician buddy, to your rodeo cousin, to your saddle-up-to-the-bar boss, to your tribal councilman uncle - these are cool.

These hat bands are made by CloudBurst, whose father is Chiricahua Apache and mother is Mescalero Apache.

This hat band is made with leather, seed beads and crow beads (hat not included!). It features arrow and zigzag designs created with turquoise, red and black beads. The beaded area is about 21" in length, and almost 1" wide. The ends are tied off with leather ties and crow beads. Looks sharp on a black, brown, or cream cowboy hat! $119.

This colorful hat band is made with leather, seed beads and crow beads. The beaded area is about 20" in length, and is about 1" wide. Featuring a bold geometric pattern in turquoise, white, yellow, red and black, this band is a nice addition to a black, brown or cream colored cowboy hat. Giddy up! $119.

And remember to wrap it up in some fancy, manly, paper.

Etsy Gift Guide: Sunburst: Burnt Umber

2011-12-16T15:47:00.006-07:00

Native American artists and designers mix deep reds with burnt orange and golden yellow hues. Click here to see more.

The Luta sunburst necklace and earring set is made with seed cut beads. The chain has bone hair pipe and Czech glass beads. It is clasped with an S hook. The back is lined with deer hide.

Vintage Rhinestone Broach.

The Same Deep Water As You earrings by DreLynn Designs.

Birds of a feather Ice Pendant by Salmonberry Dreams.

Toddler custom Moccasins

Mandolin Strap/ Finger Woven backed in Leather

Etsy Gift Guide: Teal Time

2011-12-14T05:03:00.005-07:00

Pretty items made by Native artists and designers featuring the color teal. Support small businesses on Etsy, and check out these cool finds. Click here to view the full collection.

Larimar and Metal Earrings, $15.

Blue Hummingbird on Ladies' White Short Sleeved T-Shirt, $32.

Beaded Slap Bracelet, $100.

Beaded geometric earring in purple turquoise black and silverplated beads, $36.

Of Earth and Water Basket, $45.

Salish Dentillium earrings greens, $50.

Click here to view the full collection.

Etsy Gift Guide: P*nk Rock

2011-12-13T05:51:00.002-07:00

From pretty frilly fun to sassy statement pieces, Native artists and designers rock the color pink. Click here to view the full collection of items made by Native artists or sold by Native-run small business.

Copper Pink Geode Necklace Pendant, $16.

Walk with Me, $15.

Antique blush blouse, $325.

Red Pleione Earrings, $65.

Gaga Navajo Rug Design Earrings, $20.

Click here to view more pink items.

Virgil Ortiz | Christmas Sale

2011-12-12T18:47:00.001-07:00

Half off Virgil Ortiz scarves - Somebody buy me one!:

Click here for more information.

Click here to visit www.VirgilOrtiz.com

Art Knows No Boundries Online Auction for Attawapiskat

2011-12-12T06:05:00.005-07:00

How about this cool idea - buy gifts for friends or family (or for yourself) all while supporting an awesome cause?! Yes!

Check it: The Art Knows No Boundries Online Auction for Attawapiskat is a group started on Facebook to help raise money for the families of Attawapiskat First Nation in Canada (click here for more info).

The auction ends Friday, Dec 16th at 12 noon Eastern Standard Time (more details are available on the Facebook group page).

Currently, the group has over 1,961 Members, and over 100 items up for auction (including lots of jewelry and fashion!). Artists are adding new contributions everyday, so check back often. Some of the items include:

Beaded Earrings by Jenn Wilson, starting bid at $25.

Hand painted 'heels' done up in blues and fire colors by Pauline Smith. Size 9 with a 4 inch heel, bids start at $60.

Bracelet by Deborah Cardinal, starts at $65.

Barrettes by Flora Day Rider, starting bid $35.

Baby Shoes with Braclet by Tena Keeton, starts at $45.

Coin purse (Money not included) by Debbie Lazaris, starts at $80.

Mens wool jacket by Mallory Knox, bidding starts at $60.

This is a group for all artists and all individuals regardless of race, age, class, sexuality or gender - only serious bids are accepted - this is for a good cause so keep it positive.

I've already started bidding! So click here to view more, join the group, and bid on your favorite items.

Etsy Gift Guide: Snowflake

2011-12-11T06:01:00.006-07:00

Snowflakes!

I'm in Tempe right now, and there are no snowflakes in sight, so I decided to create a Treasury List of items that combine the colors of white, silver and black, and give me that cool 'snowflake feel.' Snowflake feel? Yea, that. Click here to see the full collection.

(I've been blogging about Etsy to drawn greater awareness to Native American and First Nations artists and small businesses.)

Polar bear claw necklace

Vintage Enamel Flower Brooch and Earrings

Dentalium Shell Choker with pearl color beads, and milky white round beads

Silver Petal Pearl Earrings in Metallic Dark Grey

Large Sterling Silver Native Moneyclip

13" Macbook Pro Laptop Cover Sleeve Case Pendleton Wool

Sterling Navajo Rug Weaving Pin

T-Bird Earrings

Click here to peep the full collection.

Etsy Gift Guide: Through the Forest

2011-12-09T06:03:00.006-07:00

Continuing with my posts on promoting Native artists and small businesses on Etsy, I bring you, 'Through the Forest' - a selection of items featuring the color green.

I have a confession.
I don't like the color green. I mean, I don't hate it, but I don't actively seek it out. But, I tell you what, I love these pieces. And they feature the color green. Muy bonita. Or however you say, gorgeous. So alas, maybe there is hope for me, and Mr. Green.

Beaded Leather Fringed Necklace Pouch, $90.

Metal Mint Box, Pill Case, Vintage Buttons and Beads, $25.

Large Green Glass Heart Necklace, $6.50.

Lamp-work Bead Bracelet with sterling silver spacers and Large Sterling Silver Nuggets, $150.

Dance....Walrus Ivory earrings, $55.

View the full selection by clicking here.

Intermission: The Brutal Reality

2011-12-08T23:17:00.010-07:00

For the past several days, I've been highlighting Native American and First Nations artists and small businesses, in hopes that people will buy directly from Native artists this holiday season. And I love focusing this blog on talented individuals (and their creativity and awesomeness), but sometimes I need to post about issues of misappropriation, misuse, and misrepresentation.

I'd rather have this entire blog focus on 'Native-produced fashion,' but in our crazy world, unacceptable things occur, and I have to post about completely ridiculous things, because completely ridiculous things occur. And, unfortunately, they occur more often than we'd like to know about.

So here's an intermission post, where I write about the ridiculousness.

Ok, so, this guy, Grey Owl (who may or may not be Native American - more on that in a second) is selling some items that look an awful lot like the artwork of Métis artist, Christi Belcourt (and by 'an awful lot' I mean 'exact replica').

Exhibit A: Christi Belcourt's artwork, The Conversation:

Exhibit B: Grey Owl's knock-off, Ojibway Blackberry Case:

So, you may argue that the Blackberry Case is kinda cool. Yea it's cool, because an artist made that design. BUT, Grey Owl isn't giving any of the money from sales to the artist. He never even asked Belcourt to use her art.

This is a problem. On multiple levels.

On one level, you are stealing from a noted artist. That's just straight illegal. You can't do that. Period. Knock it off.

On a second level, why do non-artists (and businesses and corporations) consistently try to cheat artists? (this applies to all artists, not just Native artists). This is annoying. Creativity is necessary for the continuance of our communities, and we should be supporting artists, not ripping them off.

And finally, why do people think, over and over again, that Native artists are nameless artists, and that what ever they produce is free for the taking? Oh, perhaps it's because of the effed up history of art history?- of the Western (read: white people) habits of collecting Native American/First Nations objects of aesthetic value (which involved stealing and grave robbing, let's not sugarcoat this), in which few names were recorded (and, frequently, the only fact that it was 'Native American' made it something to be 'owned'). No, the work of Native artists is not free for the taking.

Ok, let's give Grey Owl the benefit of the doubt and say that he is, as he says, "a Native American Craftsman, Minnesota Chippewa Tribe, Leech Lake Band, ID#407B008010." I mean, he did just give us his Indian ID number. Like, woah.

But, duuuuuuuddde, dude. Don't tell me that you just committed a 'red-on-red artist crime.' These offenses are highly surveillanced by an intelligent group of sassy people like myself. You are now on our radar, and not on our 'good radar.' That's just too bad for you.

Additional info, click here.

Click here to write your complaint about Grey Owl's illegal activity.

UPDATE (Dec 10, 2011):
Grey Owl removed the items from his shop. CORRECTION (from Christi Belcourt): "he claimed to have removed the images from his website, however the images were removed by Zazzle staff only at my persistent insistence after I had to jump through hoops back and forth with them to prove the artwork was mine. When that was done they sent me an email confirming they had removed the items I had listed and also notified him by email."

UPDATE (Dec 10, 2011):
Christi Belcourt is not the only artist being ripped off on Zazzle (what's up with Zazzle anyways?). Looks like the store DefinitelyMaybe is using Juane Quick-to-See Smith's War is Heck.

Exhibit A, Jaune Quick-to-See-Smith's art:

Exhibit B, War is Heck T-shirt:

Thanks to Sherry Farrell Racette for catching this (while checking to make sure her students weren't plagiarizing...)

Etsy Gift Guide: Hotel California

2011-12-08T06:42:00.002-07:00

mmkk...

So I'm slightly obsessed with Etsy right now, and this post isn't really 'Christmassy' so much as it is 'vintage deserty.' But in the cold months, sometimes we need to be reminded of the heat.

A couple years ago, I heard about Owl Vintage in my random research on fashion of the Southwest in the 1940s and 1950s.

Owl Vintage is amazing in that they focus on upscale, cool vintage stuff that evokes that Southwesterny Southwesterness that I'm sure each one of us has longed for (if even for only a hot second while listening to The Eagles) at some point in our lives. I mean, I don't know about you, but I totally imagined that everyone who stayed at the Hotel California dressed in clothing hand-selected for them by the minds behind Owl Vintage. No idea what I'm talking about? That's ok, I'll show you. First, push play on this music video, then scroll down to look at the images below. Imagine mirages of silver light off in the distance, birds soaring high in the darkening sky, and crunchy dry desert earth below your feet.

Bring your alibis.

This vintage sterling silver ring features a shadowboxed bird in flight. Possibly Hopi. ca. 1970s. Found on Owl Vintage. Would fit rather nicely in those star-shaped gift boxes pictured above. $55.

This silvery sequin crop bolero is a perfect layering piece to add some sparkle to your Hotel Cali outfit. Trimmed with Swarovski crystals on the sleeve cap, this little ditty is silk chiffon covered with clover shaped sequins and has a silver frog closure. Made by Oda, an awesome team of designers who hail from the Navajo and Korean nations. Size XS. $275.

And now you have to throw some turquoise on it (if you want). This is a dazzling Navajo silver and turquoise cluster cuff bracelet, circa 1970s, from Vintage Treasures 09. This bracelet features hand cut top grade blue-green turquoise set in sterling bezels in a cluster design. The cluster is embellished with hand twisted sterling silver rope. Two rows of turquoise accent the sides. $329.

Vintage Leather Rodeo Boots from Kitsune Vintage. Non-Native, but they should be. Somebody, own them. $60.

If turquoise isn't your thing, try out this Dakota Cuff made by Birds Of Prey, a jewelry atelier born from Spanish, Mexican and Native American descent, mixing modern with traditional design and processes. $90.

This beaded ring was made by Joni Stinson (Creek/Cherokee) of Omaha, Nebraska. This bold ring is beaded in Delica seed beads in lime, oranges, and turquoise. Comfy, flexible, and great for making a statement. $32.

This vintage Native-inspired silver and turquoise bracelet, circa 1960s, is a true piece of art. It's actually a WM Rogers fork from 1863 that has been bent and twisted into flowing loops. Non-Native, but super Old West and cool like that. From CosmoBeets. $100.

This shirt, the Alexis embellished silk blouse, is a whimsical little number made by the fashion team Oda. With three-layered fluttery sleeves, vintage lace, and a bejeweled bib neckline, it is a perfect top for a professional meeting, a dinner party, or even a night out on the town. $410.

(Yes I listened to all of The Eagles songs while writing this post.)

Etsy Gift Guide: Pretty Plums

2011-12-07T06:10:00.001-07:00

Ok, can I say that purple is my favorite color? Even if I already professed my love for the color red?? Yes? Ok, good.

Scroll down to see more, and after that, click here to see the full selection.

Beaded Metal Wallet, Mountain Design, $65.

Beaded Earrings, $22.

Pendleton Wool Black Leather Purse Messenger Shoulder Bag Large, $75.

Over the Hills and Far Away Beaded Earrings, $50.

Purple Diamond ID/Badge Lanyard, $35.

Beaded Bag- Urban Tribal Native American Necklace, $50.

Wampum Acrylic Clay Earrings, $15.

Click here to see the full selection.

Etsy Gift Guide: Up North

2011-12-06T06:52:00.004-07:00

Continuing with my latest Etsy kick - today I'm highlighting a First Nations artist on Etsy.

First up is Justin Rivard, a First Nations artist who has been engraving for nearly 20 years. Originally from Nanaimo, he now works in Vancouver. Rivard is represented by several art galleries in British Columbia and the United States, but he also enjoys selling his work directly through Etsy. His jewelry is clean and detailed, and he creates items such as earrings, moneyclips, bracelets, business card holders and cufflinks.

Starting at the 'lower end' (financially-speaking), these sleek, wearable dangle earrings are hand-carved by Rivard. They represent Eagle Feathers, and measure 1 1/2" x 3/8". $70.

These baby bracelets measure 3/8" x 4 1/2" and make for cute gifts for the lil ones in your life. There is also space on the back to have the bracelet engraved and personalized. These bracelets are hand-engraved by Rivard, and can be completed in symbols ranging from Hummingbirds to Orcas. Click here for more info. $125.

These distinctive and unique cufflinks are hand-carved by Rivard with symbols that represent family crest designs found in Northwest Coast Native cultures. Rivards states that these cufflinks make great gifts, especially for the men in your life who are difficult to buy for. They can be engraved with the Orca or Eagle design. $280.

Click here to see more from Rivard, and his shop, Art From Above.

Etsy Gift Guide: iPhone Case

2011-12-05T06:30:00.007-07:00

I fell off the wagon.

This is NOT Native-made. But it is sooo badass I couldn't pass it up.

It's an iPhone 4 Case made/sold by S.O.B. Apparel based out of Los Angeles.

"Native American Bag iPhone 4 Custom Case"
Hard plastic case with decal, releases with coin
4 5/8"in x 2 1/2"in (approx)
$22.50

I wish I had an iPhone.

Etsy Gift Guide: Red Red Christmas

2011-12-04T05:27:00.001-07:00

Red is my favorite color!

Check out these cool gifts made by Native artists and designers who use the awesome color RED. Click here to see the full selection.

Mohawk Hat Badlands

Native American Beaded Sunglasses

Pendleton Wool iPad Cover iPad Case iPad Sleeve Red

Christmas Dangle Chandelier Earrings

Click here to see the full selection.

Etsy Gift Guide: A Native American Golden Christmas

2011-12-03T05:59:00.003-07:00

Prefer warmer hues?

Below are some beautiful options made by Native American artists and designers who incorporate gold, copper, or golden hues into their work. Click here to view the entire selection.

Hand-Engraved 14k Yellow or White Gold Wedding Band

Pleated babydoll minidress

Ancient friend

Beaded geometric necklace

Duckin' Arrows Bracelet

Click here to view the entire selection.

Etsy Gift Guide: Ring Ting Tingling Too

2011-12-02T05:40:00.014-07:00

Velvet and Beadwork Glass Christmas Ornament

Found on Etsy: Oblong glass ornaments embellished with Northeastern style Native beadwork. The ornaments have a matte finish at the top, a mirror finish at the bottom, and a center panel of velvet embellished with Mohawk-inspired beadwork. Referencing holly branches or feathers accented with sparkling vintage rhinestones, these ornaments measure 3.5 inches long, not including the ribbon. These treasures are each hand sewn and hand beaded, and will add a beautiful touch to your Christmas tree. From NativeCouture shop on Etsy. $25.

Etsy Gift Guide: Silvery Simplicity

2011-12-01T06:30:00.006-07:00

Need something elegantly simple, yet mega-chic with a lot of style?

Got a nice (but picky) boss to buy for this season? or a sweetheart sister? or your secret Santa selection was your cool Antie?

Well, I've got the answer! Check out Cristy Johnson's Jewelry Designs. Hailing from the Nlaka’pamux First Nations community in Spuzzum, BC, Cristy grew up surrounded by the scenic Fraser Canyon with its roaring river rapids, stunning coastal mountains, and beautiful canyons.

Currently residing in Victoria BC, Cristy expresses her love of nature through her jewelry designs in the form of leaves, dew drops, and symbolic representations of the beautiful West Coast.

This silver asymmetrical pendant is hammered into the shape of a delicate leaf, and suspends from 16" of sterling silver cable chain and a handcrafted silver closure with a 2" extender. $44.

These shimmering sterling silver earrings are hand-hammered in the shape of petals that hold a small bunch of faceted turquoise rondelles. These earrings are available in light amethyst, black spinel, labradorite (greyish blue), prenite (light green), pyrite, and turquoise. $39.

These silver hammered asymmetrical leaf earrings would match the necklace above (for that extra-special someone). $42.

A single rutilated amethyst quartz briolette drops from a silver wire framed petal silhouette to create this beautiful necklace. $46.

These sterling silver earrings featured a hammered double-petal silhouette design. $39.

This silver hammered scaled long leaf necklace is a contemporary interpretation of a leaf. $78.

This stunning silver interlocking necklace features two sterling silver hammered and textured circles of unequal circumference suspend from a light cable chain showcasing a single coin-shaped cultured white fresh water pearl. $64.

For your brother who has no idea what to get you for Christmas, send him to Cristy's shop, and tell him, "I'll take anything!"

Click here to check out my Treasury List that highlights an assortment of Native-made items featuring silver, shell, and bone materials.

Etsy Treasury Lists

2011-11-30T05:59:00.001-07:00

So, Etsy lets you 'curate' lists of favorite items based on themes. I put together two 'Treasury Lists' and found out that it was a lot of fun (and borderline-addictive) to look through everyone's work and pick out some cool pieces that fit your latest interest (first, I was obsessed with all the pretty silver stuff, then red stuff, and then with teeny tiny baby stuff, and then with turquoise stuff, etc etc). Check what I did by clicking the links below, and think about making your own Treasury List with favorite items made by Native artists.

A Native American Silver and Shell Christmas

Native American Red Red Christmas

Itty Bitty Baby Gifts for Christmas, Made by Native Artists

Native American Style: The Coolest Turquoise for Christmas

Etsy Holiday Gift Guide: ndnchick

2011-11-29T06:52:00.009-07:00

Continuing the Etsy-a-thon, here are some more ideas!

Ok, before I get in to it, I have a confession. I always wanted to be the Indian version of Martha Stewart. You know, write about cool "tricks of the trade" for beadworking, bring in special guests to talk about making fry bread for weddings, and do a feature on cool decorating ideas with birch bark.

(I'm looking off into the distance right now)

Ok, but back to this post (it relates, trust me, just see below, I totally pull a Martha Stewart)....

So I came across ndnchick (Colville Confederated Tribes) from Spokane, WA - she makes a lot of cool accessories, such as beaded hair barrettes, earrings, and necklaces.

I like her because she is up on it! She keeps her Etsy shop updated, and usually runs some cool Deal of the Day offers (follow her, for real).

Since you can get some pretty amazing deals on her site, I suggest you pick out a combination of 3-5 items, and put them together as stacked presents (my inner-Martha is coming out). Cool concept yea? Check it out:

Pick a color scheme - usually you can determine if your friend, cousin, or niece likes blues, or reds, or cool colors, or warm colors. But if not, hey, just go for both!

These pretty beaded teal and aqua earrings go for $30. If you don't like these, that's ok, you can select other options here.

This cool poinsettia hair accessory is perfect for the holidays, and goes for only $10. I love hair flowers, and ndnchick has many to select from - pick your favorite Hair Flower Accessory here.

These laser cut Baltic Birch Wood Feather Earrings are about 2" in length, and sell for only $5. Only five dollars! If I was in a band, I would buy a pair for every member.

This aqua and teal beaded hair barrette sells for $30.

This raindrop-shaped medallion, made with brown and cream glass seed beads, features a carnelian (gemstone) drop pendant. It goes for $50.

One of her many many options for hair sticks, this set is handmade using green, yellow and white seed beads, on wood sticks with green and white checker patterns. This set goes for $30, but you can purchase sets or singles by clicking here.

She also sells cards with matching envelopes (to make this a super personalized gift!). Beautiful and only $5 (do you know how much I spent for a card at Target the other day?!).

So again, select 3-5 items, wrap them up into something cute, and you are set! And there you go. Supporting local. Supporting awesome.

Holiday Shopping Guide: Support Native Artists and Small Businesses on Etsy

2011-11-27T06:29:00.042-07:00

Ok ok ok - everybody is sayin that we should support local artists and small businesses this holiday season; and sometimes it's like, yea, that's a great idea, but just HOW do we do that? Well, I'm going to make it easy for you! Over the next couple of weeks I'll be highlighting some of my favorite items and shops on Etsy.

If you don't know about Etsy, they are, in sum, "the world's handmade marketplace." Their mission is to empower people to change the way the global economy works. They offer a unique sales platform for artists and small businesses (perfect right?), and even better, there are lots of Native artists on Etsy! Rock out.

So recently, I opened up an account so that I can highlight Native artists and jewelry designers. Click here to access my public profile, where you can see my favs.

Here are a couple highlights (again, since this is a fashion blog, I'm focusing on jewelry and accessories gift ideas, but there are many other products for sale on Etsy):

This large beaded barrette was found on the Etsy page of Julia (Shawanaga First Nation Ojibway band), who operates Sparkle and Bead. This cute yellow, white, and purple barrette also has itty bitty little lady bugs on it too, and would make a great gift for a special niece. $80.

I also found this wide pink cuff bracelet with a white leather backing, made by Julia. It would make a cool gift for a teeny bopper (do they still call them teeny boppers?). $30. Other color combinations available. Click here for more info.

Coming from the Comanche Nation of Oklahoma, Ear Reigns (cool name, right?!) sells these colorful hand-beaded earrings. An awesome gift for a girl friend, cousin, or best buddy who is packin' a lot of sass. $20. Click here to find out more.

This cool Bullet Case Necklace comes from Rainey "Nasuġraq" Higbee, an Inupiaq Eskimo artist from the North Slope of Alaska. Higbee and her husband own several different types of firearms, and they pick up the casings after they are fired and turn the 'waste' into some neat accessories. Strung on a black faux leather cord, this brass bullet casing is from a .500 bullet, the world's largest manufactured revolver round. For only $15, you can give this little gem to a guy friend (boy friend?), cousin, or nephew. Heck, this is so badass you know girly girls would like it too. Lock and load.

Also from Salmonberry Dreams, this pendant is made of fossilized walrus ivory. Delicate and permanent scrimshawed Inupiaq Eskimo motifs have been added to the surface. It measures about 1" long and comes on a 19" chain. This is another cool guy gift. Time has turned the outer layer from deep cream to mottled hues of brown and dark blue. How cool is that? Tell your main squeeze it represents your love (through time, we get more beautifuller, ha!). $50.

Higbee says, "I specialize in artwork created from the leftovers of the animals we harvest and rely on for food. Be aware that no other people besides Alaskan Natives are allowed to create pieces of art from walrus ivory, fossil walrus ivory, and polar bear."

Click here to check out their Etsy store Salmonberry Dreams, where you will find many more awesome gift ideas.

Now this is a neat idea that allows you to get a little creative too. This solid copper bracelet can be stamped with your name, someone else's name, or any word or phrase in English, Choctaw or other language. This would be a great for an uncle, or mentor, or, you know what would be cool? Stamp nokomis on this and give it to your grandma. Hey, we all know copper is good for arthritis! $34.

Enrolled in the Choctaw Nation, the artist is also into tradish-style trading! Yes! Lots of other cool jewelry on this shop site, so check it out.

And finally, for your friend, daughter, or cousin who had a baby this year, check out these super cute mocs. This set was made by Nita, an enrolled Alaska Native artist, who her sells her stuff along with her family on the Tots-May-Wee shop site. $60.

Hopefully I can spotlight a variety of artists from different regions who do cool things. I purposefully selected examples that are under $100 because I'm on the poorer side of things. But if you check out the sites, you'll notice that there are higher-end options that these artists offer as well. And finally, let me know if you have a favorite Etsy shop that should be highlighted on here.

Support.

Video | Jhane Myers Talks Powwow

2011-11-25T06:43:00.000-07:00

Jhane Myers Noisecat, Matriarch of the Noisecat family, who will be participating dancers in the 2011 Gathering of the Nations Pow Wow this weekend, joins Nikki from KASA.com to talk about her heritage and family, and the 2011 Gathering of Nations Powwow. Her daughters Wakeah, Peshawn and son Fuji share their talent with a dance to the beat of a drum played by Roger DeWayne Tofpi, of both Kiowa and Ute Heritage.

Random Inspiration from Powwows.com

2011-11-23T06:01:00.001-07:00

Somehow I got on the listserv for powwows.com - and normally I don't much care for mass emails, but this one was full of gems.

First, they tell me about Attaching Metal Cones. It's a cool little article that has nothing to do with what I do on a daily basis, but it was interesting. It made me want to go out and attached some cones to something.

Then, they have the latest pics from the 2011 Manito Ahbee Powwow posted. And one of them was this awesome snapshot:

And then, evidently, they sell really cool stuff on this website! (haha, I know, many of you probably already know this, but I'm behind the times!)

(Handcrafted and naturally dyed Porcupine Quill Earrings (I *need* these).)

(Floral-patterned headband made from cut beads and rhinestones (I do not need this, but the maker says the headband "would make an awesome addition to anyones dance outfit!" and I agree).)

I kinda can't wait til the next mass email from them. But, until then, I can always just keep updated on their Facebook page.

Native Threads Online

2011-11-21T06:36:00.001-07:00

Native Threads is unveiling a new online store with free shipping on every product.

As one of Indian Country’s only Native-owned and operated clothing companies, Native Threads has been building a loyal family of customers throughout North America since 1990. They state, "Our designs are contemporary, yet the messages are very traditional. By combining these elements, our clothing helps give Native people clarity about who they are in this place and time. By providing constant reminders about our past, our products help bring to the surface the pride we carry inside of us."

This holiday season, considering giving gifts that are made by Native artists and designers and that support Native companies.

Comedian JR Redwater on the cover of the holiday catalog, wearing a Native Threads Black Button-up Sammy II Camp Shirt. Price: $49.99

Native Model Sahar Khadjenoury in Native Threads "N" Style Hoodie in Black. Price: $49.99

Crystle Lightning in Native Threads Junior's Wings V-Neck Tee in Black with Turquoise accents. Price: $36.99

Native Threads Painted Hand Cap in Black. Price: $29.99

Native Threads 4 Feathers Tee in Royal Blue. Sale Price: $10.99

Native Threads Albuquerque Shoe. Native Threads and Vox Footwear teamed up for this limited edition shoe featuring a multi colored blanket pattern and black suede. Available in men's size 5-14 (Women's Size 6.5-15). Price: $59.99

See more on the Native Threads website at http://www.nativethreads.com/

White Women and Headdresses

2011-11-19T06:40:00.000-07:00

I'm on a mission to find out when white women started wearing Plains Indian headdresses as a part of 'fashion'.

One of my friends, Ross Chaney, found this gem:

A unusual vaudeville act - USA, 1940s
"Wearing her authentic Native American headdress, Enid Mutterbucket would leap up and down on two mini trampolines, ululating while she performed various movements of an arcane nature. She was accompanied by Signor Prosciutto on his accordion, who played his own arrangements of Lakota folk songs interspersed with popular Glen Miller hits of the day. (Well, I did tell you it was an "unusual" act!)"

and I found this:

American Actress Tallulah Bankhead in the London stage production of The Dancers (1923), wearing a buckskin dress and a feathered headdress.

"Although not critically acclaimed, The Dancers was a sensation with audiences in England. It boasted superior production values and first rate acting, but the clear attraction was Tallulah. Her unique voice and stunning beauty caused her to be the talk of the town. Her most famous scene was one in which she performed an Indian dance costumed in feathers and jewels. Similar to Madonna's success in the early 1980's, Tallulah also developed a cult fan base of teenaged girls who copied her dress and style and lined up outside her door after performances."

Any leads, send them this way!

The Heard Museum Presents: Native American Bolo Ties

2011-11-17T06:32:00.000-07:00

Arizona’s official state neckwear, the bolo tie, has reappeared from its exile in grandpa’s dresser drawer to enjoy a fashion comeback. Explore this uniquely Western sartorial adornment’s history and revival in a wonderful and fun new exhibit at the Heard Museum in Phoenix. Native American Bolo Ties: Vintage and Contemporary will open Saturday, November 19, 2011.

The distinctive tie originated in the Southwest, and its popularity quickly spread throughout the West and in many other parts of the country. The distinguishing necktie has been made even more distinctive by contemporary American Indian artists in Arizona, who make bolo ties that are exquisite expressions of individuality and ingenuity.

Bolo ties, representing the casual nature and somewhat rugged milieu of the West, emerged as a form of men's neckwear in the 1940s. They directly countered business suits as well as the formality suits represented, and instead marked a different style and a different way of life. In particular, American Indian jewelers and silversmiths brought individuality and creativity to this art form, offering a broad range of unique and artistic options.

The exhibit and book will show the antecedents of the bolo tie, including Victorian neckwear and scarf slides. It will include an important early scarf slide from the Heard Museum collection made in 1930-40s by Leekya Deyuse (Zuni Pueblo). The exhibit and book will also include new information on patents for the different backings of the bolo tie, which is essential to accurate dating of a tie when the date is not otherwise known.

Also, the exhibit examines how Western wear, including the bolo tie, was popularized through 1950s television shows and movies. Some TV and movie personalities who brought scarf slides and bolo ties into the everyday vernacular include the Cisco Kid, Hopalong Cassidy and Roy Rogers. And of course, the exhibit will showcase bolo ties created by American Indian jewelers from the late 1940s through today.

The bolo tie’s road to acquiring the status of Arizona’s official neckwear is also quite interesting; the story stretches out several years. KOOL Channel 10’s anchor Bill Close and five other bolo tie enthusiasts met in 1966 at the Westward Ho Hotel in downtown Phoenix. From the beginning, their intent was to make the bolo tie a state emblem. Perhaps to help the cause, Arizona Highways Magazine devoted several pages of its October 1966 issue to Southwestern jewelry, including bolo ties. Help arrived when Governor Jack Williams proclaimed the first week of March 1969 as “Bolo Tie Week.” After several unsuccessful attempts, a bill making the bolo tie the official state neckwear was finally passed on April 22, 1971.

The bolo tie is also the official neckwear of New Mexico and Texas, although Arizona was the first state to designate it as such.

(Norbert Peshlakai (Navajo). Silver seed pot bolo tie, 2008, 3 1/8” height, stampwork and hammered texture silverwork with stones including coral, jade, and shell, with wire fittings. Hallmark is artist’s logo. Peshlakai was one of the first artists to make a silver seed pot around 1976. He excels in the art form and based this shape on one from the cover of the book "Old Traditions in New Pots.")

The exhibit will be on display through September 3, 2012.

Buy the book from the Heard Online Shop or from Amazon.

Event | Heard Museum Fashion Show

2011-11-15T06:53:00.000-07:00

Ah yes! A fashion event in Phoenix - check it out:

Trendsetting Native American couture to highlight Heard Museum fashion show

Explore the color, glamor and cutting-edge excitement of Native American couture and jewelry at Native Style: Where Fashion is Heard, the Heard Museum’s fashion show, boutique and luncheon, on Friday, December 2. Native contemporary designs by Orlando Dugi, Penny Singer and Patricia Michaels will ignite the runway, accessorized by stunning jewelry from top designers like Victoria Adams, Marian Denipah, the Gaussoin family, Kenneth Johnson, Steve LaRance, Duane Maktima and Wes Willie. The show will also provide a rare opportunity to view vintage couture by iconic Native American designers Lloyd Kiva New, Kay Bennett and others—all from the collection of Robert Black, proprietor of Scottsdale’s retro-chic boutique Fashion by Robert Black.

“Fashion is a living art form that impacts our daily lives,” commented Heard Museum President Dr. Letitia Chambers. “The Heard is honored to celebrate the contribution that American Indians have made, and continue to make, to the world of fashion. The museum’s collection includes classic pieces by mid-century designers like Lloyd Kiva New and Charles Loloma, but the Heard has also always been dedicated to exhibiting and promoting the work of living contemporary artists. Native Style provides a great opportunity to do so in a way that’s engaging and fun.”

Native Style kicks off at 10:30 a.m. with a reception and pre-sale, followed by a delectable lunch and runway show. Music will be provided by leading Canyon Records recording artists Radmilla Cody, Aaron White and Anthony Wakeman. Fashions and jewelry by many designers represented in the runway show will be available for purchase at a private boutique sale, which then opens to the public at 2 p.m.

“We’re proud to represent some of today’s hottest Native trendsetters in a visually stunning event,” noted Heard Museum Art Director Phil Conley. “This will be a fashion show unlike the rest, and the only place to see the finest in Native style.”

Native Style
Where Fashion is Heard
Friday, Dec. 2
10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Tickets are $45 for Heard Museum members
$50 for non-members

Call Dani Boone at 602.346.8192 to purchase tickets.

Collab: Sho Sho Esquiro and Turquoise Soul

2011-11-13T06:30:00.007-07:00

I've been slackin'!

So, if you recall, I had an awesome opportunity to tag along on a photoshoot this past summer with Wabanoonkwe Cameron-Hernandez and Sho Sho Esquiro, who were working with photographer Anthony Thosh Collins and models Amberae Wood and Miigwaans Cameron. Click here to see my behind-the-scenes images before you scroll down to check out the awesome pro images that came out of that shoot:

Miigwaans Cameron models a Pendleton Leather Graff Zip-up by Sho Sho Esquiro Clothing, and large beaded hoop earrings and beaded bracelet by Turquoise Soul. Hair and Make-up by Wabanoonkwe Cameron-Hernandez. Photo by Anthony Thosh Collins. Location: Cochiti, NM.

Amberae Wood models a long-sleeve print dress by Sho Sho Esquiro Clothing, and extra-long bangin' beaded earrings by Turquoise Soul. Extra-long legs by Amberae Wood. Hair and Make-up by Wabanoonkwe Cameron-Hernandez. Photo by Anthony Thosh Collins. Location: Cochiti, NM.

Amberae Wood models a High Waisted Skirt with Leather Ruffle by Sho Sho Esquiro Clothing, and extra-long beaded earrings and necklace by Turquoise Soul. Hair and Make-up by Wabanoonkwe Cameron-Hernandez. Photo by Anthony Thosh Collins. Location: Cochiti, NM.

DJ Young Native models a Men's Pendleton Jacket by Sho Sho Esquiro Clothing. Photo by Anthony Thosh Collins. Location: Cochiti Pueblo, NM.

DJ Young Native models a Men's Pendleton Jacket with Leather Sleeves and a Fitted Beaded Hat with 14K Gold Beads, both by Sho Sho Esquiro Clothing. Photography by Thoshography. Location: Cochiti, NM.

DJ Young Native models a men's Pendleton jacket, custom t-shirt, and beaded cap by Sho Sho Esquiro Clothing. DJ equipment is model's own. Photography by Thoshography. Location: Cochiti, NM.

DJ Young Native models this Pendleton Jacket by Sho Sho Esquiro Clothing. Bingo card print on the inside of the hood. Photo by Anthony Thosh Collins. Location: Cochiti Pueblo, NM.

Miigwaans Cameron models a Black Leather Top with Carved Bone Feathers and Sterling Silver Beads by Sho Sho Esquiro Clothing, and Turquoise Soul earrings and necklace. Hair and Make-up by Wabanoonkwe Cameron-Hernandez. Photo by Anthony Thosh Collins. Location: Cochiti Pueblo, NM.

fashion STATEMENT: Native Artists Against Pebble Mine

2011-11-11T06:38:00.002-07:00

fashion STATEMENT: Native Artists Against Pebble Mine is a traveling exhibit of wearable art that highlights a rural Alaskan community's opposition to foreign mining investors attempting to build North America's largest open pit mine at the headwaters of their fragile salmon spawning grounds.

Native Alaskan fisherwoman and artist Anna Hoover curated the exhibit as her Master's Degree project for the University of Washington.

The show, comprised of artwork created by internationally celebrated Native artists reproduced on t-shirts and limited edition prints, will be exhibited and made available online for purchase to raise awareness for this movement.

In August the exhibit premiered at the International Gallery in Anchorage, and on November 3rd, it opened at the Burke Museum in Seattle. It will continue to travel to a series of venues around the US, Canada and New Zealand.

The Natural Resources Defense Council has stated, “If the Pebble Mine is allowed to go forward, it will inflict irreversible damage on Bristol Bay -- including the permanent destruction of sixty miles of salmon habitat.”

The show features designs by esteemed Native artists such as Joe David, James Luna and Larry McNeil, all of whom have asserted the centuries long relationships that Native peoples have created with their environments, through Native art activism.

To view and purchase the T-shirts designed by the artists in the show, visit: www.nativeartistsagainstpebblemine.com

Click here to listen to an interview with Anna Hoover.

Disa Tootoosis Reds

2011-11-09T06:46:00.002-07:00

I'm loving these designs by Disa Tootoosis that incorporate lots of deep reds - beautiful colors for autumn! Photos taken at North Battleford, SK, Canada.

Louie Gong's Killer Whale vs. Seals Custom Shoes

2011-11-07T07:06:00.001-07:00

(Custom Coast Salish / Northwest Coast style shoes by Louie Gong)

About this pair, Gong says, "I started these Killer Whale vs. Seals customs about a year ago. I didn't like what I had done so I set them aside...until tonight, when I did some work to salvage them. I really like em! (all my shoes are hand drawn so there is only one of each design available."

For more information, click here, here or here.

Some History | Some Stylin' Indians | Christianne Morris (Micmac)

2011-11-05T07:00:00.001-06:00

Christianne Morris (Micmac artist) was known for her exquisite work in the traditional Micmac arts, supporting her family by the sale of quillwork and basketry. Her needlework, quillwork, splint basketry, and even a full-sized canoe and paddles all won first prizes at various provincial exhibitions. She once sold two beaded costumes to Indian Commissioner William Chearnley for the impressive sum of $300.

In the image below, she wears an ensemble of garments and accessories that she made her self. The outfit consists of a beaded peaked hat, a jacket, a woollen skirt appliquéd with ribbon, and beaded moccasins. She stands with her adopted son, and it is likely that she created his outfit as well.

From the portraits and works of art that survive her, we can see that she was a beautiful and gifted Native woman. One of the region's most interesting people in the 19th century, Christianne Morris is remembered not only as a model for the Nova Scotia painters who portrayed her but also as a talented artist in her own right.

Shoes | Powwow Love Drama

2011-11-03T06:51:00.000-06:00

"Powwow Love Drama"
Experimental Ledger art custom shoes by Orlando Obie Begay

That Is One Mega-Cute Baby Bonnet

2011-11-01T06:10:00.005-06:00

‎Pictured above is American fashion designer Tom Ford with the 2011 Santa Fe Indian Market Native American Clothing Contest Best of Show Winner and the First Place Contemporary Adult Female Winner (in Santa Fe at the annual August Indian Market event).

Ford said that he particularly was pleased with the recipient of the first-place award for Contemporary Female Adult, Naomi Bebo Maybee (Menominee/Hochunk), who wore a Japanese-Native American fusion kimono with ledger art applique, designed by her mother-in-law, Toni Williams. He was also pleased with 1-year-old Persephone Maybee, daughter of Naomi and artist Dallin Maybee (Arapaho/Seneca), who took Female Best in Show with a head-to-toe outfit created by her father. The little pink ensemble included a split horn baby bonnet and elk tooth dress with matching beadwork.

Tammy Beauvais Honors Kateri

2011-10-29T06:44:00.001-06:00

Mohawk fashion designer Tammy Beauvais made this stole in honor of Kateri Tekakwitha to be presented and given to Pope Benedict XVI at the Vatican by Sister Kateri Mitchell (Mohawk Nation), who is the director of the Tekakwitha Conference based in Great Falls, Montana.

The Tekakwitha Conference is the only Catholic Native American/Aboriginal Religious Organization in North America. It was founded in 1939 and was incorporated in 1979 as a National Non-profit Organization. The National Office is located in Great Falls, MT in the Diocese of Great Falls-Billings.

Sr. Kateri will be leaving to Rome to meet with the Pope and will present the Kateri stole to him. Beauvais said it was an honor to create this piece.

Apache Chronicle

2011-10-27T06:05:00.004-06:00

(Lynnette Haozous as Lozen in: "Apache Chronicle")

Need some mid-week badass inspiration? Check out this upcoming experimental documentary about the life and art of five strong Native women, who are also talented artists and skateboarders affiliated with Apache Skateboards. Starring Melissa Cody, Razelle Benally, Rebekah Miles, Lynnette Haozous, and Tasha Hastings, this doc is produced and directed By Nanna Dalunde in collaboration with Douglas Miles of Apache Skateboards. Here's the trailer:

Some History | Some Stylin' Indians | Caroline Parker (Seneca)

2011-10-25T07:25:00.011-06:00

I think I'm just really into old daguerreotype photographs right now, but these images are awesome. This is Caroline Parker (Seneca) in 1849 who, by the age of 19, was already recognized as a highly skilled artist. She is wearing an outfit that she created herself.

Her blue woolen broadcloth skirt is decorated with Iroquois symbols, and incorporates 'tree of light,' 'heaven and earth,' and 'council fire' motifs. These clothes became part of the Lewis Henry Morgan Collection at the New York State Museum in Albany. The skirt and red cotton overdress are still present in the Museum's collection where they remain a source of continued inspiration to those wanting to replicate traditional Seneca clothing.

Urban Nation Live Features Beyond Buckskin

2011-10-23T06:16:00.000-06:00

Beyond Buckskin was recently featured on Urban Nation Live with Lisa Charleyboy.

Click here to listen to a really cool audio clip of Urban Native Girl Lisa Charleyboy talking about Wapsisquare, Modeling, and Beyond Buckskin. Awesome!

‎Concealed Weapons

2011-10-21T07:11:00.000-06:00

‎'Concealed Weapons' custom body art by Thomas 'Breeze' Marcus.

To read more about Marcus and his work, click here or here or here.

Speaking of Navajo... Men of the Navajo Launch Calendar

2011-10-19T11:40:00.000-06:00

So, last week I was on a plane, and the girl in the seat in front of me had a magazine. I couldn't help but peep her zine since I haven't really engaged in non-academic reading in quite some time.

She was reading an article about Blake Lively. I don't know who this person is, but the magazine said she dates the hottest guys. Yeah, the hottest. So I'm like "ooh, the hottest?!?" and I adjust my seat to get a better view of the spread. Turns out that Blake dates only white guys, and white guys, dear Popular Culture Magazine, are not the hottest guys.

Case in point - the Men of the Navajo have just released their 2012 calendar. Women on the Facebook page for the Men of the Navajo are rawring at the photos. One commentor even said, "He's hot! Almost as hot as fry bret!" Now that is HOT.

The Men of the Navajo calendar features handsome Native American men from across the Navajo reservation. This attractive and entertaining calendar reveals the modern spirit of today's Navajo men. I hope other Native nations pick up on this calendar trend (hint hint Chippewa and Cree).

Click here to get your Men of the Navajo 2012 Calendar.

Navajo Calls Out Urban Outfitters For Its Products

2011-10-17T13:39:00.012-06:00

Click the link below to read some more news about the Navajo / Urban Outfitters situation - I'm quoted!:

Navajo calls out Urban Outfitters for its products

If you happen to find yourself bored, just go and google the words Navajo Urban Outfitters - there have been many recent news posts about it!

I'm happy to see Native people standing up against big coorporations who seek to continue the legacy of misappropriation, misuse of Native designs, and misrepresentation of 'the Native' in mass media. Enough is enough. And for those of you who think that this stuff is NOT important, you should read up on how stereotypes, and racist language and misrepresentation in mass media HARMS Native rights.

The articles all basically say the same thing, but here's the list!

These articles reprint the above article:

Fox News (Fox News! I know right?! And OF COURSE they had to put the word 'disrespectful' in air quotes.): Navajo Nation Fights Urban Outfitters Over 'Disrespectful' Clothing Line

The Christian Science Monitor (The Christian Science Monitor! I know right!?): Urban Outfitters Navajo line draws criticism from Navajo Nation

ABC News (ABC!): Navajo Calls out Urban Outfitters for Its Products

The Seattle Times: Tribe blasts Urban Outfitters on 'Navajo' items

These articles take some other spins:

Jezebel (Jezebel always breaks it down. I wish I was half as badass as they are.): Urban Outfitter’s ‘Navajo’ Problem Becomes A Legal Issue

Jezebel: Urban Outfitters And The Navajo Nation: What Does The Law Say? (Oh man, this article.. this article looks at 'the law'. The legit legal aspects of this 'case.' And, I gotta say, if 'the law' sides with Urban Outfitters, I will throw a holy fit. Yes, a holy one.)

Jezebel: The Most WTF Navajo-Inspired Clothing And Accessories (ha.)

Time (Time! as in, Time Magazine! The magazine that my mom subscribes to.): Urban Outfitters Taken to Task for Faux 'Navajo' Products

Star Tribune: Urban Outfitters' hipster panty is a Navajo no-no (Excellent, excellent title.)

Fronteras Desk: Navajo Nation: Urban Outfitters Must Change Clothing Line (Great audio too, and they quote my good friend Kerry Thompson! A Navajo smarty-pants and someone I've always looked up to.)

Dallas Blog: Navajo Indians Call for Underwear Boycott (Now this title is a little wonky...)

Racked: Could Urban Outfitters' Navajo Hipster Panty Actually Be Illegal? (Yes, could a panty be illegal?!)

And perhaps the most important article: Indian Country Today: What’s Next for the Urban Outfitters Navajo Case? (Adrienne Keene)

UPDATE:

Indian Country Today: So-Called Navajo Products Vanish from Urban Outfitters Website

Phoenix New Times: Urban Outfitters Pulls Navajo Name from Collection; Heard Museum Weighs in on Native-Inspired Fashion That Should Be Produced

ANOTHER UPDATE:

Companies Switch from 'Navajo' to 'Southwestern'
Fashionista: Barneys’ Amanda Brooks Writes Tone Deaf ‘Navajo Nation’ Post: Can the Fashion Industry Stop Describing Trends as ‘Navajo’? (Yes, We’re Guilty Too)

Urban Outfitters' products have been the subject of multiple controversies, particularly concerning religious and ethnic issues. mmhmmm. Click here to read a list of Urban Outfitters' "Product Controversies."

Dressed Just Right Exhibition

2011-10-17T06:53:00.001-06:00

Mildred Carpenter's dress was recently featured in the Dressed Just Right exhibit at the Buffalo Bill Historical Center Museum in Cody, Wyoming.

Her red dress, pictured on the left, was on display at the "contemporary platform" - representing some of the best current western fashion today. It's really cool to see a Native-inspired dress, made by a Native person, exhibited in the 'contemporary' section - because most of the time our awesome gear is relegated to the sections devoted to 'the past.'

Carpenter was also recently awarded the Best Fashion Collection at the Annual Cody High Style Fashion Show held every fall in Wyoming. Here's a few pics from her collection:

Read more about Carpenter by clicking here or here.

Some History | Some Stylin' Indians | Hole-In-The-Day (Ojibwe)

2011-10-15T07:15:00.003-06:00

I have a slight obsession with this guy - his name is Hole-In-The-Day (or Bug-o-nay-ki-shig), and he was an Ojibwe leader during an important time when his community was negotiating the imposed Euro-American culture with that of their own.

His father was also named Hole-In-The-Day, and the younger succeeded him as chief of the community.

He is oftentimes described as a handsome man with polished manners, and he mingled easily in white society during his many trips to Washington, D.C., and St. Paul. He dressed in fashionable European-style clothes, but he always kept his hair long and continued to wear a blanket draped across one shoulder. Euro-American fashion was simplistic in the 1800s, and individuals like Hole-In-The-Day made it visually more exciting with the inclusion of Ojibwe accessories and items of adornment. He also continued to wear Ojibwe-style moccasins.

He was popular with both men and women, and he was a accomplished public speaker. Reverend Claude H. Beaulieu says of him:

"Hole-in-the-Day was a man of distinguished appearance and native courtliness of manner. His voice was musical and magnetic, and with these qualities he had a subtle brain, a logical mind, and quite a remarkable gift of oratory. In speech he was not impassioned, but clear and convincing, and held fast the attention of his hearers."

Soon white men in both the nation's capital and the territorial capital began to look upon him as a spokesman for all his people.

The New Trend: Calling Out Racist Trends

2011-10-13T06:13:00.007-06:00

Is calling out racist fashion trends the new trend?

The Huffington Post recently published a scathing article about Forever 21. Titled 'Forever 21 Sells Faux Native American Items in Their Columbus Day Sale,' the article takes a critical look at the items that were 'on sale' for the holiday that many Native Americans want abolished. And the author found Native-inspired clothes on sale, for Columbus Day. WTF F21.

The author wrote, "it just seems like someone over at Forever 21 could have given the items in their Columbus Day sale a little more thought. Maybe they coulda done a once-over, you know, just to make sure no styles influenced by the people directly negatively affected by the reason for the sale were included IN THE SALE."

Here's one of the gems on sale. Titled Chiefs Burnout Top, it was marked $11.92, down from $14.90, as part of the sale.

Read the entire article here.

Or, click here to read the original, which was published on the popular blog site, WTForever21, an amazing site that makes fun of the ridiculousness that is Forever 21.

He Sapa Style Show 2011

2011-10-12T06:44:00.014-06:00

South Dakota doesn't celebrate Columbus Day - instead, they celebrate Native American Day. While the rest of the country commemorates the arrival of Christopher Columbus and his three ships (which didn't even make it to America, btw), people in South Dakota honor the Indigenous peoples who were here long before Columbus.

The Black Hills Powwow, or He Sapa Wacipi as it is known in the Lakota language, is one of the biggest celebrations, coinciding each year with the weekend before Native American Day. It is a competition powwow held in Rapid City. Besides dance and drum competitions, there are also a wide variety of other events, such as a youth day symposium, hang game tournament, Miss He Sapa Win Contest, and a Style Show.

Above is a picture from the 2011 He Sapa Style Show featuring a design by Mildred Carpenter (photo by Dawnee LeBeau). Designers at this year's event included Darlene Perkins, Meghan Casey, Sina Shaw, Prarie Edge, Darla Brown, Bessie Sherwood, Mildred Carpenter, and Jackie Bird '2010 He Sapa Style Show Designer of the year.'

Urban Outfitters, You Ain't Navajo

2011-10-11T20:50:00.000-06:00

Oh man, what do you get when you combine Urban Outfitters with the critical minds of Jezebel, Racialicious, Native Appropriations, and Indian lawyers?! - this little ditty below.

Urban Outfitters- Don't claim Navajo, unless it's Navajo, and you ain't Navajo. So knock if off.

Urban Outfitter’s ‘Navajo’ Problem Becomes A Legal Issue
Sasha Houston Brown of Minneapolis published a strongly worded open letter to Urban Outfitters yesterday at Racialicious. Brown, who directly addresses C.E.O. Glen Senk, takes the clothing chain to task for its appropriation of Native American arts and crafts, and its frequent use of the word "Navajo" in product names and descriptions...
Click here to read the whole article.

Fuck Columbus

2011-10-10T06:00:00.000-06:00

It's that time of yea again, when something needs to be said.

This man has a National American holiday named for him even though he never set foot on American soil.

He is responsible for leading the massive genocide of Indigenous populations in Caribbean. Committing atrocities such as slicing open pregnant women, slavery, rape and outright murder.

We want to know why this man deserves a holiday.

That's why we say FUCK COLUMBUS AND THE SHIP HE CAME IN ON.

Click here to order.

Diversity on the Catwalk

2011-10-07T07:19:00.003-06:00

I love Jezebel.

Mostly because they are not afraid to disclose the ugly side of the fashion industry, and to do it with solid numbers. and graphs.

The Impact Of Diversity On The Catwalk

Every season, New York fashion week comes around, giving us all endless opportunities to gawk at front-row celebrities and trends in the making. And every season, this website tracks the racial diversity — or, more bluntly, the lack thereof — on display among the models who are cast for the top shows. This season's numbers are in, and fashion week was slightly more diverse than usual.

This is good news, obviously — but it's especially good news coming on the heels of last season, which was the whitest in years.

If the girls [on the runways] are mostly white, then the faces the rest of us will go on seeing in ads, magazines, and billboards will be white. And then the kind of beauty another generation of girls and boys will grow up being taught to value above all others will be white.

Read the entire breakdown by clicking here.

Proenza Schouler's Creepy Indians Video

2011-10-05T06:31:00.003-06:00

The ever-sassy website The Gloss gives Harmony Korine's new artsy video for Proenza Schouler a big thumbs down. I think I do too. Read all the way to the bottom to learn my reasons why.

Article | Harmony Korine Directed A Really Creepy Video For Proenza Schouler
by Jamie Peck

What happens when a luxury brand gives a so-hip-it-hurts filmmaker a bunch of money to direct a short film featuring clothing from its fall collection? Snowballs happens, apparently. The Harmony Korine directed short premiered at Paris’ Club Silencio Tuesday night, a club which, fittingly enough, was designed by David Lynch.

Like much of Korine’s work, the five-minute-long head scratcher is set in a depressed corner of America, namely a rural tract of low-income housing, possibly a trailer park. To make matters worse, the film’s two main figures appear to be Native Americans, albeit creepy, gnome-like Native Americans wearing silicone masks and…Proenza Schouler, naturally. They sing a terrifying little song as they go about their business, which includes going to hang out with a white Deliverance type whose gas mask is reminiscent of the Dennis Hopper character in Blue Velvet. I don’t know about you, but I spent the entire length of the film waiting for some terrible violence to happen, and it never did. This resistance to any kind of narrative or dramatic payoff is one of the most divisive things about Korine’s work.

“It was a little disturbing. It was really uncomfortable and jarring and amazing,” socialite Lauren Santo Domingo told WWD. “I don’t know if anyone can make a crystal meth trailer park seem chic. I mean, there is something very avant-garde about it.”

After you’re done laughing at that person, can we talk about the cultural appropriation going on here? Making artsy films about disadvantaged communities you don’t belong to is one thing. Making artsy films about disadvantaged communities you don’t belong to for the purpose of selling thousand dollar couture? That’s kind of where I draw the line. Add in the element of race, and you are in way, way, way over your head. I know Proenza Schouler’s Jack McCollough joked that “it’s a sales deterrent, if anything,” but let’s get real. Proenza Schouler is not in the business of throwing money away just for the fuck of it. This is a storied fashion house, premiering a short film at an incredibly trendy and exclusive club, during Paris Fashion Week, for a room full of Important Fashion People. Sounds pretty promotional to me.

Way to like, totally sell out, Harmony Korine. It’s a good thing I didn’t like your films that much to begin with.

(Via The Gloss, Via Jezebel, who had this to say: The clip features clothing from Proenza Schouler's fall collection, which was inspired by a trip designers Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough took through the American West and Southwest. "We spent time in Wyoming, Colorado and New Mexico exploring Native American history and their crafts and were inspired by Navajo textiles," explained Hernandez when he testified before Congress in support of a bill earlier this year. "When you look at our designs you won't see knockoffs of Navajo crafts. Instead you will see that we incorporated their feel and some of their elements to create our own originals."

NOW THE GOOD PART: That's right, Proenza Schouler can copy from Native artists, but he asks Congress to pass a bill that will help him "against copyists who prey on [his] ideas." His ideas? Tsk Tsk Proenza, quit perpetuating the idea that Native people don't have badass artists, designers, original ideas, or innovative designs, and don't deserve intellectual property rights. Efffff you.

Proenza Schouler should look to Siki Im, who was also inspired by Navajo textiles, but instead of trying to profit off of Navajo culture, Siki Im instead collaborated with Navajo textile artist Tahnibaa Naataanii. That's right, collaborate!, because cool artists exist, so stop trying to rip them off. Read it here.

Read the Testimoney of Lazaro Hernandez here, Fashion Designer & Co-Founder, Proenza Schouler, before the US House Subcommittee on Intellectual Property, Competition and the Internet, Legislative Hearing on the Innovative Design protection and Piracy Prevention Act, July 15, 2011.

Virgil Ortiz Rolls Out Indigenous Imprints™ Collection

2011-10-04T23:05:00.001-06:00

Aqua Hospitality Carpets Summer 2011 features the Indigenous Imprints™ collection created by Virgil Ortiz.

Ortiz, a prolific designer of pottery, jewelry and fashion, combines the artistic traditions of his native Cochiti Pueblo ancestors with bold and contemporary concepts. Consisting of twenty unique patterns, his design concepts balance the contemporary and the traditional for guest rooms, corridors and public spaces.

Scroll down to see his carpet designs and read his interview with Aqua Hospitality.

Tell us a little about your background and why you make pottery?
I grew up on the Cochiti Pueblo reservation in New Mexico where I helped my family make pottery, never really knowing it was an art form because it was always around.

Is there a particular style of work you prefer?
All the pottery I create is a revival of the older pieces my ancestors made from the 1800’s found in Cochiti. The designs are all based on social commentary and I use traditional methods and materials to create the pottery. They all have very special meanings taken from both nature and ceremonial looks from the different families on the reservation.

Who and what inspires you?
Both of my parents, their families and the entire Pueblo people of Cochiti inspires me. I collect my grandmothers’ pottery from auctions and use these historic pieces as my inspiration. The two most important elements of Pueblo life are our language and our art.

Where is your favorite place to go for creativity?
On the Pueblo. I am a visual person and I remember everything I see. From the Pueblo I can incorporate my designs into many different mediums, my clothing and accessories, pottery and now interior finishes.

How would you best describe yourself?
Very family oriented. Everything I do is to help the children on the reservation. Everything comes full circle; everything comes back to the pottery, to the language, to art, to kids. I want to pass on the family traditions to the next generation and keep it alive.

What is one of you fondest memories?
Growing up we would all go as a family to collect the materials and supplies needed to create the pottery. It was fun and everyone enjoyed searching for the right items. We still do that today and everyone enjoys helping me find the appropriate materials to create the pottery.

Name one life lesson you have learned?
To keep our family traditions alive and to give the children the backbone to be able to go out and do whatever they want.

What legacy would you like to leave for the next generation?
Pottery making and our ceremonial ways on how you are supposed to do things in our culture.

Best gift you ever received
Pottery made by my grandmother

If you were an animal, what animal would you be?
I believe animals are very intelligent. Our elders give us an animal name when we are born, mine is the badger.

My purpose in life is...
To create opportunities for children in the Pueblo that reflects the legacy of our ancestors while promoting a global awareness of the Pueblo culture.

A typical day looks like...?
No rest!

Best book you have recently read?
I love all types of books but my favorite is fiction. The fictional stories take me to another place that I typically would not go. It also helps me to teach the children how to take their minds to a different place. It helps with creativity.

Best movie you have seen?
I am a movie buff! Again I like the fiction movies. I study them because eventually I would like to produce a movie.

Do you have any guilty pleasures?
Traveling so I can see what is not on the reservation. Georgia Sweet Tea!

What do you consider a “hot “ trend?
Hot trends are disposable. Being native, we respect everything living and I use nature a lot because it’s traditional and the designs last forever.

Click here to view the entire collection.

Angela DeMontigny's Parfleche Series

2011-09-28T17:43:00.000-06:00

Check out First Nations fashion designer Angela DeMontigny's latest purse collection, the Parfleche Series. Based on Plains Indian parfleche rawhide bags, DeMontigny's versions are hand cut and sewn by master leather craftsmen using the finest Italian leather and hardware.

This collection is based on the parfleche, which is a Native American rawhide bag used in the past for holding dried meats and pemmican. The first known use of the word parfleche was in the early 1800s and comes from the Canadian French parflèche - from French parer meaning to ward off, and flèche, which means arrow. The term referred to the hide, which was tough enough to be used as a shield.

Among many tribes, women made and decorated parfleche, often with designs that were passed down for generations through families. In addition to familial designs, painted parfleche bags can also be identified by tribal characteristics. Crow, Lakota, Blackfeet, Ute, Nez Perce and other tribes all used mineral paints and designs that reflected community artistic styles.

The large flat surface of the parfleche bag was painted with colorful, geometric, abstract designs. Some of the original parfleche bags had graphics that were maps or general geographic depictions of the surrounding landscape. A sharpened porous buffalo bone served as an effective paint brush. Sometimes the rawhide was incised to highlight a design. (Click here to view historical parfleche bags in the Smithsonian's online collection.)

The development of DeMontigny's collection was a result of the Cody Institute for Western American Studies (CIWAS) Resident Fellowship program at the Buffalo Bill Historical Center in Cody, Wyoming, where DeMontigny was a fellow last summer.

Neo-Navajo fashion: Trend or tradition?

2011-09-26T11:22:00.002-06:00

This article was just published yesterday, in The Arizona Republic. The article asks Navajos what they think about the 'Navajo' trend in fashion, and they interview awesome folks like Jaclyn Roessel and Melissa Cody.

Neo-Navajo fashion: Trend or tradition?by Jaimee Rose

And now, from the people who think they know everything about what we should be wearing, comes a new trend about which we Arizonans might know a bit more.

At Neiman Marcus, just racks away from Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen's latest leather offering, there's a kicky cashmere shift dress - all geometry in deep red, black and cream - that looks exactly like the Navajo blanket on display in the Heard Museum (hand-loomed in 1880, just so you know).

At Forever 21 in Scottsdale, mannequins wear $8 feather necklaces while posed in positions not unlike a ceremonial dance - and the sign in the window says "Into the Wild." (Made in China, and you don't want to know.)

Diane von Furstenberg is on a $365 "Native Hound" print parade. September style magazines trumpet the look with multipage shopping guides headlined "Hail to the Chief." Teenagers are buying woolly shawls. Shawls!

From the omnivorous minds of fashion designers, who want us in soldier chic one minute and Bollywood brilliance the next, a communal word emerged as the Gospel of Fall: "neo-Navajo!" they declared, flinging Navajo iconography all across the mall.

There are arrows on bracelets and medallions on miniskirts and woven patterns on skinny jeans that cost $660 at Barneys New York.

Even this: "Navajo Hipster Panties," at Urban Outfitters, printed with zigzags and stars, which an online reviewer loves because they make her "bum look delicious." Ahem.

It's such a fashion buzzword that a solid-blue robe at Target is christened "Navajo Navy" - a color we thought was named after a military branch of the USA.

So we have questions. We have questions for the fashion folks and questions for magazine editors.

We wonder what the people who write product descriptions for Intermix were thinking when they penned "The new Navajo: ethnic Aztec inspiration" (different country, different tribe).

We are not sure it was in the best taste for Urban Outfitters to offer a Navajo-inspired flask, because there's a history there. It's complicated.

And we are dying to hear from the Navajo people themselves - who would be well within their rights to have their Navajo hipster panties in a twist, considering the Telegraph newspaper in London told its readers to "channel your inner Pocahontas."

Pocahontas wasn't Navajo. She was from Virginia.

Lost in translation
"It's funny, being Navajo and seeing this. I was looking online, and there was, like, a Navajo tube top," says Jaclyn Roessel, 28, who grew up learning to weave on the reservation and now works in education programming at the Heard Museum.

She sees girls her age wearing the look everywhere: feather earrings for a dinner downtown, or Navajo prints on the light rail, where she spotted an Arizona State University student in a dress so gorgeous that Roessel wished it was hers.

"It was so pretty, but I don't know - I don't know if I could pull it off," Roessel says, and she's not sure she should try.

This modern moment is an odd twist for Navajoland, where parents and politicians alike worry endlessly about too much USA leaking onto their 17.2 million-acre homeland - a wide corner of Arizona where wandering sheep and red rocks reign supreme.

Navajos wage a constant cultural battle to defend their traditional beliefs and Native language against the influx of 2011, which wants the kids to believe in Beyoncé, and sing along to "Run the World."

They're used to selling their kids on their culture, not being the stars of the mall.

So Roessel has questions of her own. For example: Do those fashion folks in New York think that all her people are dead?

"I wonder whether they understand that Navajo is even . . . a living culture," Roessel says, "and that there are women today who wear outfits with these designs on them because they mean something."

In their lust to sell "Navajo" as the perfect blend of bohemian-exotic cool, the fashion elite may not have realized that those stacked triangles and jagged edges are symbols, and that they stand for something else.

The symmetrical pattern on a cashmere cardigan at Neiman Marcus comes from the careful symmetry of Navajo rugs, which Roessel says pay homage to the Navajo convention of leading a balanced life. (This may not recommend spending $517 on a sweater.)

The stacked triangles on blouses at H&M could be interpreted as clouds, which bring rain to the crops of Navajoland and, therefore, food to the tribe's tables. (Fashion and dinnertime have never understood one another.)

And consider the Navajo Hipster Panty: Those zigzags often stand for lightning, explains Roessel. Her people wear the symbol as an emblem of protection. The star design nods to the four sacred mountains on each corner of the sacred Navajo homeland.

Translation: Those undies are protecting something sacred indeed.

Behold, the trendiest chastity belt of all time.

A caveat: No one would be safe trying to precisely dictate the intended meaning of Navajo symbols or rugs, says Ann Hedlund, a University of Arizona anthropology professor, tapestry expert and curator of ethnology at the Arizona State Museum.

Navajo is an unwritten oral culture passed down through generations of storytellers, and things tend to shift during flight. Also, there are times that Navajo weavers put triangles and zigzags on things for other reasons, Roessel says, possibly because they just look pretty on the rug. Or, the meanings could change based on the context of the entire composition. .

Everything is complicated.

Designer labels
"Neo-Navajo": whither, and why?

"I wouldn't say a bunch of fashion editors got together and said, 'Let's name this. What should we call it?' " says Tracey Lomrantz, an editor at Glamour magazine in New York, which dedicated eight pages of its August/September issue to the Navajo look. "But this way, we sort of encapsulate it and make it easier to understand.

"Everyone naturally gravitated toward the word neo-Navajo because (the look) is a new interpretation," Lomrantz says. "It's not a costume. The cuts are very modern, and the tailoring - it still looks like 2011.

"In fashion, nothing is new, but this is the most literal interpretation that we've seen of Navajo . . . and this Navajo theme kept resonating with a lot of different designers."

On the list: Proenza Schouler, Isabel Marant, even rocker-turned-fashionista Gwen Stefani and her L.A.M.B. line. And none of the above would give us an interview to discuss naming and inspiration. Perhaps it's complicated.

We did, however, receive an offer to publicize trendy labels with the following pitch from a fashion house in New York:

"Pay homage to our past while looking marvelously modern with Navajo-inspired styles from Chelsea Flower, Love Sam, DL1961 Premium Denim & Cult of Individuality . . . On-trend and simply chic - minus the Headdress. Pack the teepee (or the closet) with (items) that will be sure to become closet staples."

Teepee? Headdress?

Hail to the grief.

Lomrantz says designers are getting their Navajo notions from all kinds of places, like the work of Ralph Lauren, that Great Spirit of Native-inspired work, who has been extolling the virtues of the Southwest for years. (Did you see him chatting up Oprah Winfrey at his Colorado ranch? Did you see the Navajo rug in the background? He didn't want to talk to us either.)

Also, Lomrantz says, significant designer inspiration comes from the Parisian fabric markets held each year, where designers wander and select their wares. Navajo is huge in France.

Finally, she says, "the most important thing in fashion right now is the idea of a global marketplace, and the desire to travel to understand other cultures."

What not to wear
In the spirit of promoting understanding of the fashion culture, we wish to offer you Lomrantz's advice: Should you wish to go neo-Navajo, do so with discretion.

"Rather than going head-to-toe and being mistaken for an actual Navajo, I think accessories are a great place to start," she says. "Maybe a belt or a piece of jewelry. And I am really loving the fringed suede booties.

"This is not meant to be a costume."

To wit: A few weeks ago, Roessel was in Phoenix, walking to dinner with a friend, and spotted a girl gone wild: "She had feather earrings, and a headband, and sandals with fringe, and it was quite over-the-top, like Native American Fashion Night," Roessel says.

"Now, I love fashion and I love to dress up, but if she was in Glamour, you'd have had the black bar over her (eyes)."

The Navajo now
And in the spirit of promoting understanding of the actual Navajo culture, we introduce you to Melissa Cody, an actual neo-Navajo, if there were such a thing. She is 28, originally from Leupp, on the reservation, and creates weavings that hang in the Navajo museum and the tribal president's office, too. Her work sells for $2,000 per square foot.

Recently, she wove caution tape into a rug so cool that, if Urban Outfitters could see it, we fear for the hipster panties that could come forth. It was a tribute to her father, and what she found in his toolbox.

"I'm a fourth-generation weaver," Cody says. "It started off with my great-grandmother, my grandmother, my mom and her sisters, and then myself. We all grew up weaving.

"It is one of the few links that I do have to my culture. I wasn't raised in the traditional religious background. I don't identify with the different ceremonies or songs. I'm not fluent in my language, and I can't converse with my grandma, but we speak the same language in terms of weaving and textile. It's something I hold very dear to my heart."

It's not exactly "the traditional way" to make a rug out of caution tape, Cody says, or to put Pac-Man into your pattern, like 30-year-old weaving celeb Sierra Teller Ornelas did, or to make street-style T-shirts with chiefs on the back and "Noble Savage" on the front, like Cody's friend Jeremy Arviso, 32, did.

But being Navajo now means continuing the culture war by making the traditional arts interesting and relevant to younger generations, and in that way, preserving the Navajo story.

"Neo-Navajo is embracing everything around us, and that's not new," the Heard Museum's Roessel says. "But now it means using social media and film and video games - that give-and-take of adapting things from American culture to make them uniquely ours.

"Neo-Navajo is that push, and understanding that you're part of both worlds."

The last time Cody showed her grandmother something wild she'd dreamed up, her mother translated her grandmother's reaction:

"I'm going to copy that," the elder Navajo said.

Reach the reporter at 602-444-8923 or jaimee.rose@arizonarepublic.com.

Native Appropriations Takes Down Urban Outfitters

2011-09-23T23:13:00.001-06:00

(Urban Outfitters' "Navajo Socks" ain't Navajo, just fyi)

Aw snap! Adrienne Keene over at Native Appropriations is on an Urban Outfitters Take-Down mission! (and I LOVE IT.)

Keene has called out Urban Outfitters many times in the past two years for their shameless attempts at appropriating (and misrepresenting - oh, and profitting off of) Native cultures.

Her latest post looks at UO's use of the word 'Navajo.' She says it best: "Urban Outfitters is Obsessed with Navajos." Unfortunately, they're not the first to be obsessed with Indians. But that's a different story.

Keene says: "A search for "Cherokee" on the Urban Outfitters website reveals 1 result. A search for "Tribal": 15. A search for "Native": 10. "Indian": 2. But Navajo? 24 products have Navajo in the name alone."

She goes through the women's section, chucking all of the Native-inspired items into her online cart, and ends up with a whopping 58-item cart! Good lawrd, 58! (I'm semi-curious what the grand total of this cart was, considering that we ALL KNOW that economics factor into this whole deal in a crazy effed-up way).

Keene then focuses on a particular (bad) trend - the over-use (and mis-use, tsk tsk) of the word Navajo.

Then, she tells us that the Navajo Nation has actually trademarked 12 derivatives of the word "Navajo". That's right kids. This word is trademarked. And the Navajo Nation Attorney General sent a cease and desist letter to Urban Outfitters. Daaaaang. Cut.it.out!

Here's part of the letter:
"Your corporation’s use of Navajo will cause confusion in the market and society concerning the source or origin of your corporation’s products. Consumers will incorrectly believe that the Nation has licensed, approved, or authorized your corporation’s use of the Navajo name and trademarks for its products - when the Nation has not - or that your corporation’s use of Navajo is an extension of the Nation’s family of trademarks - which it is not. This is bound to cause confusion, mistake, or deception with respect to the source or origin of your goods. This undermines the character and uniqueness of the Nation’s long-standing distinctive Navajo name and trademarks, which—because of its false connection with the Nation—dilutes and tarnishes the name and trademarks. Accordingly, please immediately cease and desist using the Navajo name and trademark with your products.

As a Nation with a distinguished legacy and unmistakable contemporary presence, the Nation is committed to retaining this distinction and preventing inaccuracy and confusion in society and the market The Nation must maintain distinctiveness and clarity of valid association with its government, its institutions, its entities, its people, and their products in commerce. When an entity attempts to falsely associate its products with the Nation and its products, the Nation does not regard this as benign or trivial. TheNation remains firmly committed to the cancellation of all marks that attempt to falsely associate with the institution, its entities, its people or its products. Accordingly, immediately cease and desist using Navajo with your products."

Read the whole wonderful Native Appropriations post by clicking here. And remember, truly awesome Navajo fashion designers exist, just go on and click here to see some super cool stuff that isn't wack.

Some History | Tula Shell Coat of Armor

2011-09-19T07:03:00.000-06:00

Shell Coat of Armor
Mexico, Hidalgo, Tula
9th-12th Century AD

The old city of Tula had a great historical relevance in Mesoamerica.

The archaeological ruins of Tula are located in the Mexican state of Hildalgo northwest of Mexico City. Tula is considered to be the candidate for Tollan, the legendary capital of the Toltec Empire, which was founded in about 750 A.D. when the Teotihuacan empire was in the process of falling apart.

Between about 900 A.D. and 1,100 A.D. during the height of Tula's power, it covered an area of some five square miles, with a population of perhaps as high as 60,000.

In Tula, Toltec society grew increasingly militaristic. The knightly orders of jaguar and eagle warriors and the practice of massive human sacrifices are likely to have begun there. The heavily fortified city took on a somber air as war and death became the dominant themes in stone work.

For more information, check out this book (where I found this awesome image): The Road to Aztlan: Art from a Mythic Homeland

Some History | Ancient Southwest Jewelry

2011-09-16T07:02:00.001-06:00

I'm teaching a series of Native American art history courses at Arizona State University this year, and it's has been fun getting to know the students (the majority of whom are non-Native artists). I think we're finally at the point in the semester where we 'get' each other. They are bright, and although most of them know very little about Native American cultures or art, they've taken up the material with interest and are doing a really good job (so far, haha).

Because I'm back in 'Teaching Mode,' I'll be doing more 'Some History' posts. Right now, we're looking at the Southwest region in two of my classes, so I wanted to share these images of Ancestral Pueblo jewelry.

This is an Ancestral Pueblo (also known as Anasazi, which means Enemy Ancestors in Navajo) stone figurine found at Pueblo Bonito in Chaco Canyon. The figurine, which estimated to have been made sometime between the years 1040 and 1120 CE, is wearing turquoise a turquoise necklace.

This ancient basketry bracelet is encrusted with turquoise plaques that were set using pine-pitch adhesive. Found in Texas, this bracelet is thought to have been made around the year 800 or later.

This is a picture of Ancestral Puebloan turquoise, spiny-oyster shell, and jet beads and pendants found at Pueblo Bonito in Chaco Canyon. The shell and jet necklace contains more than five thousand beads that range in size from 1-2mm. Just to give you a sense of size, the frog is about 3 inches long. These items are dated to around 1000-1200 CE.

This Ancestral Pueblo obsidian blade-shaped gorget is overlaid with a mosaic of turquoise, shell, and jet. Found in a seed jar in Utah, it also dates from around 1000-1200 CE.

These three earring sets demonstrate how the style of Southwest mosaic-inlay work has remained constant from the ancient pre-Puebloans to contemporary artists. (Top:) These Ancestral Pueblo turquoise-mosaic pendants are estimated to have been made sometime between 1100-1200 CE and were found at Canyon de Chelly. (Middle:) These Hopi turquoise and abalone shell earrings were made in the late 1800s. The mosaic includes turquoise beads found at ancient ruins. (Bottom:) These earrings of turquoise and abalone shell were made by Hopi master jeweler Charles Loloma in 1978.

This is a photo of Hoo-n-ym-pka (Hopi), who wears turquoise mosaic earrings and a necklace of glass seed beads strung with one larger bead, seen on the left. Her butterfly hairstyle is typical of postpubescent, unmarried Hopi women. Her manta is the traditional black woolen blanket dress worn by Pueblo women. This picture was taken in 1901.

To learn more, check out this book (where I found these images): North American Indian Jewelry and Adornment.

Getting Deep with a Tribal Mash-Up

2011-09-14T07:07:00.000-06:00

New York Fashion Week is underway (I'll post a review when it ends after September 15) and I'm expecting a healthy dose of 'tribal inspirations' to show up in the designers' collections.

About the popularity of the Tribal Trend, one L.A.-based non-Native designer had this to say:
"When life is chaotic, there is a desire for deeper understanding. At the end of the day, it's clothing, but there is more to it. Does globalization mean more than being connected electronically? I hope so. I like the idea of a mash-up of tribes."

(To read the full article, click here)

Michelle Thrush Wears a Disa Tootoosis Dress to the Geminis

2011-09-12T07:11:00.000-06:00

Canadian actress Michelle Thrush wore a Disa Tootoosis dress as she picked up her trophy at the Gemini Awards on September 7, 2011.

Thrush won the Best Actress in a Drama prize for her role as an alcoholic mother living on the fictional Blackstone Indian reserve, and the star used her acceptance speech to remember her late Blackstone co-star Gordon Tootoosis, who passed away recently in July.

She told the audience at the ceremony in Toronto, Canada, "About 23 years ago when I began acting, there weren't a lot of brown faces on television and Gordon was one of a handful. He urged me as a teenager to get into acting."

The Gemini Awards have been annually recognizing and celebrating excellence in Canadian English-language television since 1986.

See her acceptance speech by clicking here.

Beyond Buckskin September Links!

2011-09-09T07:02:00.041-06:00

Lots happening in the Beyond Buckskin area of interests, so I thought I'd do a round up of some interesting articles and links - click away!

Native Elegance Hits Runway: A review of a Rapid City runway show featuring designs by Darlene Perkins, Mildred Carpenter, and Danita Strawberry. Models and designers from Indian country makin South Dakota look sexy!

Oklahoma Artist Joins NIKE to Create Native Inspired Clothing: A cool write-up about Bunky Echo-Hawk's historic collaboration with Nike - an alliance that's proving to have positive impacts on inspiring Native youth. Follow your dreams, kids!

Crossing Generations: Blogger Miss Mondo highlights Maori fashion designers Keri Wanoa and Hemi Sundgren, the brains behind WHIRI fashion. Miss Mondo is basically the Maori version of Beyond Buckskin, so of course I am an avid reader/follower! (but not in a creepy way!)

The Ephemerals: An all-female Aboriginal collective of artists and curators, the Ephemerals critique the current Tribal Trend and encourage college students to take a deeper look at the cultural implications of Fall's most important trends.

The Racial Construction of Preppiness, part II: The fierce ladies over at Threadbared take a look at a group of young urban males who appropriate and re-mix (and re-fashion) the Americana image constructed by designer Ralph Lauren. That's right, 'Polo low lifes'. Not specifically Native-focused, but a good article on the construction and reconstruction of identity, culture, and class. Super sick.

Futurist Giorgio Sant' Angelo, An Hommage: A model's perspective on Giorgio Sant Angelo, a designer whose vibrant Indigenous-inspired couture was all the rage in the 1970s. He made the Tribal Trend très chic by garbing celebrities such as Zsa Zsa Gabor, Diana Ross, and the Jaggers. (the Jaggers!)

Colorful Rooster Feathers Being Used As Hair Accessories: A creepy article about how one salon is taking the Feather Extensions Trend "a step further" by adding Native hair to the feather look. Get this, "because it's so hard to get rooster feathers," they started incorporating American Indian hair ("because of its strength"). Yikes! Using American Indian hair, they say, offers a more animal-friendly alternative. Scalps anyone?

Style Show Highlights Traditional Dress: The Cherokee Phoenix online news source reviewed a recent Southeastern-Indian fashion show held in Tahlequah. Models of all ages wore clothing from a period ranging from 900 A.D. to the present. Photo highlights include a full-length turkey-feather cape and this pretty Seminole style skirt (pictured above).

NDNs From All Directions from Bear Witness on Vimeo.

And finally, A Tribe Called Red Production video featuring the NDNs From All Directions ultimate remix. Fricka fricka.

Some History | Miss Navajo Nation

2011-09-07T07:05:00.003-06:00

It's Navajo Nation Fair time! And the folks over at Indian Country Today posted a cool article on the annual event.

The Navajo Nation Fair draws about 15,000 visitors a day to Window Rock, Arizona, the Capitol of the Navajo Nation. The week-long fair kicks off on the Monday after Labor day, September 5. It is the largest American Indian Fair and Rodeo in the Southwestern United States, and consists of over two dozen events that extend over the seven day period.

With a rodeo, arts market, Miss Navajo competition, powwow, parade, and a fashion show, I'm sad that I'm going to be missing the Fair again this year.

I decided to do a post on the Miss Navajo Nation competition because, in addition to demonstrating their skills as supremo Navajo chicks, these young ladies get to rock some awesome tradish fashion. To learn more about the Miss Navajo competition, I highly recommend that you check out the documentary film, Miss Navajo (see the trailer below). It offers an insider's glimpse into this important event, which consists of criteria that you don't get to see in your typical beauty competition, and the contestants are judged on their cultural knowledge and Navajo language skills.

For more than 50 years, the Miss Navajo Nation beauty pageant has given its contestants opportunities to showcase not only their beauty but also their skills in dance, music and sheep slaughtering. Following contestants in their quest for the crown, and featuring personal stories of recent winners, Miss Navajo is a celebration of womanhood.

The first ever Miss Navajo was Dr. Beulah Melvin Allen, who was 23 when she was crowned. She went on to become a doctor. Very badass, Dr. Allen!

The second Miss Navajo was Ida Gail Organick, who reigned from 1953 to 1954. Lookin good among those canyons Miss Ida Gail!

Miss Navajo, 1963-64, Anna Mae Begay Fowler was the first to rock the Miss Navajo crown. When Fowler competed, there were two categories - modern and traditional - and Fowler competed in both. In the traditional category, she had to demonstrate her skills in weaving and singing. For the modern competition, her skills included typing, sewing and public speaking.

This jazzy lady is Rose Ann Bekis Kenneth, who reigned as Miss Navajo from 1969 to 1970.

About her time as Miss Navajo 1979-80, Freda Nells said, "I have benefited enormously from the reigning as the ambassador of one of the largest Native American Indian people. The experience has showed me confidence, independence, ambition, respect, and set a goal for my future. With that in mind I continued my education."

Sunny Dooley, Miss Navajo 1982-83, is a storyteller, poet, playwright, workshop facilitator, lecturer and Navajo folksinger. Multi-talented!

About the importance of basketry, Karen Leuppe, Miss Navajo Nation 1994-95 (aka Miss Awesome Hair), said, “The center of the basket represents the existence of a child and the spiral extending outward from the center represents the learning environment provided at home and in the community. The coils and stitches binding them together remind us that everything in the environment is connected and ensures the child is living in harmony and peace with family and nature.”

The 46th Miss Navajo was Radmilla Cody. She says, "My grandmother raised me herding sheep, weaving rugs, and speaking the Navajo language being that was our source of communication. I dealt with a lot growing up half black and half Navajo."

Her goals during her reign included working closely with youth, parents and elders. "The youth because they are the perserverance of who we are as Dine' people. The parents because they are the role models and communicators within the home. The elders because they are valuable resources and the roots of our people." She also advocated for community programs that dealt with issues such as Child Abuse/Neglect, Elderly Abuse/Neglect, Domestic Violence, Gang Activity, Natural Resources and Alcoholism/Substance Abuse.

Another doctor, Karletta 'Daane' Chief was Miss Navajo 2000-2001. Chief said, "As my grandmother and my family have encouraged me and have been my role models, I hope that I can give back to my people in the same way, to be a role model to young Navajo children, and to preserve our language, our culture, and our land."

Last year's winner was Winifred Bessie Jumbo from Two Grey Hills, NM. Jumbo will pass on the crown this week to a new Miss Navajo Nation, and continue the legacy of encouraging and celebrating the strength and importance of women as cultural bearers and cultural bridges.

Click here to read more about the Miss Navajo competition and history.

Five Indigenous Blogs to Follow Now

2011-09-05T07:31:00.001-06:00

Last week, First Peoples Blog spotlighted Beyond Buckskin as one of the "Five Indigenous Blogs to Follow Now" - That's awesome, and it's totally an honor to be spotlighted by the First Peoples crew.

First Peoples: New Directions in Indigenous Studies seeks to publish work that exemplifies contemporary scholarship and research in Indigenous studies. They look to promote scholarship by junior authors whose publications will contribute to the development of the field. They routinely update their blog with First Peoples news and information (including this top five blog list, which they started last fall), so check them out sometime and support emerging scholars and progressive Indigenous research.

Genocide Chic

2011-09-03T18:46:00.000-06:00

Mock high fashion designer DW Diaz dips the old crusty past in some glitter!

Kevin Pourier's Warrior Shades

2011-09-03T07:49:00.000-06:00

Lakota artist Kevin Pourier discusses challenging the perceptions of American Indian art. He also provides background on materials used as well as historical and contemporary connections expressed in Warrior Shades.

Video | Patricia Michaels Guerrilla Fashion Parade

2011-08-29T07:09:00.002-06:00

Sandra Okuma Beaded Shoes

2011-08-27T07:35:00.004-06:00

(Beaded Shoes by Sandra Okuma, Shoshone/Luiseno, at the 2011 SWAIA Santa Fe Indian Market. Photo by Amber-Dawn Bear Robe)

My friend Amber-Dawn Bear Robe spotted these awesome shoes at the Santa Fe Indian Market last weekend. They are made by Sandra Okuma, who is of Shosone-Banock and Luiseno heritage. With an education in commercial art from Los Angeles Tech, she worked as a graphic designer for a number of years. She is inspired by antique Indian beadwork as well as contemporary powwow regalia to create masterly paintings and beaded items. Her vibrantly-colored paintings depict people of all ages and tribal affiliations in elegant powwow-style clothing with beaded accessories.

Tom Ford Weighs in on Indian Market Clothing Contest

2011-08-25T07:37:00.000-06:00

(Malachi CD Tsoodle-Nelson received Honorable Mention in the Traditional category of the Native American Clothing Contest at Indian Market. - Natalie Guillén/The New Mexican)

Ford weighs in on Indian Market clothing contest
Kay Lockridge | For The New Mexican
August 21, 2011

Tom Ford, fashion designer extraordinaire and award-winning film director and producer, had to be convinced to join the panel of judges for the annual Native American Clothing Contest at Indian Market.

"Yes, it's true, Richard [Richard Buckley, fashion journalist and Ford's partner of 25 years] did persuade me to be a judge this year, but he won't ever have to persuade me again. I'll be happy to come back whenever they [Southwestern Association for Indian Arts] want me.

"It was so much fun to be part of the contest. I had been to the competition in the past but only as an observer. It's really important to support and encourage Native American arts, and that includes clothing," Ford said.

Buckley, who has sponsored the contest for the past four years and is a member of SWAIA, echoed Ford's words.

"The important thing is to encourage Native American culture and all the arts," Buckley said. "The clothing competition is my baby, and I wanted to share it with Tom. We've always made a good team."

When asked whether he found what he was looking for in terms of design elements, Ford responded enthusiastically, "Oh, yes! Good things are always good things and stand out. Good, creative design strikes a chord with people.

"This is true whether we're talking about traditional or contemporary design. What I found exceptional in the contemporary competition was that designers were faithful to traditional Native American elements and yet presented them with a new, fresh perspective."

Ford said that he particularly was pleased with the recipient of the first-place award in Contemporary Adult Women, Naomi Bebo Maybee (Menominee/Hochunk), who wore a Japanese-inspired kimono designed by her mother-in-law, Toni Williams, and 1-year-old Persephone Maybee, daughter of Naomi and artist Dallin Maybee (Arapaho/Seneca), who took Female Best in Show with a head-to-toe outfit created by her father.

"This was a family affair," Ford noted. "You could see the shared vision. I was quite taken with both outfits. This is what keeps me coming back," Ford said.

Jessica Growing-Thunder placed first in the Traditional category. - Natalie Guillén/The New Mexican

Persephone Maybee, 1, won Female Best of Show on Sunday at the Native American Clothing Contest. - Natalie Guillén/The New Mexican

Patricia Michaels Guerrilla Fashion Parade

2011-08-23T07:02:00.002-06:00

Hey folks!
I'm just now somewhat bouncing back from my trip last weekend to Santa Fe where I checked out the SWAIA Indian Market. Showcasing over 1100 artists from 100 tribes, the Santa Fe Indian Market is the largest cultural event in New Mexico, attracting 100,000 visitors per year. The Indian Market features visual arts competitions, film screenings, musical performances, lectures, galas and much more. The fashion events are already getting press coverage - and here's one article on Patricia Michaels' guerilla-style fashion walk on the plaza last Saturday morning.

(Patricia Michaels and one of her models from her "Fashion Parade." Credits: Elizabeth R. Rose Photography.)

Santa Fe Indian Market - Market goes high fashion with model parade
Elizabeth Rose, Native American Jewelry and Art Examiner
August 20, 2011

If you were at Santa Fe Indian Market this morning you may have been treated to a high fashion parade of models sporting Patricia Michaels designs.

Patricia's leggy, white haired models paraded through the market this morning carrying huge floral pieces and parasols... all Patricia Michaels designs. It just goes to show you that Indian Market is going contemporary.... little by little.

(..Click here to read the rest of the article: Santa Fe Indian Market - Market goes high fashion with model parade)